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Thread: Suspension Voodoo

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    newington, ct
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    4,182

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    That goes contrary to the advice I've received Greg (besides step 1), but recognized there are quiet a few variables. When speaking with Lee at Koni about various shock packages, he actually recommended that I didn't purchase the "better" shock package due to diminishing returns. There were also other packages which had a multiple ways to adjust them which I simply am no where near ready for. Given my particular situation, having single adjustable shocks was the way to go. Koni also obtained various pieces of information about my car such as total weight, corner weights, and so forth.

    What suspension brand are you using now?
    Dave Gran
    Real Roads, Real Car Guys – Real World Road Tests
    Go Ahead - Take the Wheel's Free Guide to Racing

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by gran racing View Post
    ...speaking with Lee at Koni about various shock packages, he actually recommended that I didn't purchase the "better" shock package due to diminishing returns.
    That's because he knows you're a cheap f**k...



    On edit: sorry, I meant to use the word "thrifty"...damn Turet's keyboard...!
    Last edited by Greg Amy; 03-10-2010 at 03:36 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Purcellville, VA USA
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    902

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    Wow Greg, a bit cynical?
    Greg is correct in most of this. However, if you are going to run a Strut type car there are things to be careful about. If you lower the chassis too much you can play hell on the roll center. This in-turn increases roll moment. With very heavy springs you still will not be able to keep the car from rolling or even jacking. You really can’t spend too much on shocks, but for IT racing you have to budget it. You can hit a point of diminishing returns so to speak. Most cars run more spring rate in the rear which seems to help. Ask a good chassis engineer and they will tell you it doesn’t matter once the rear tire is in the air. Once the tire is hanging you are at 100% weight transfer and the front springs are all that matters. Spring and shock lengths matter, you don’t want to bottom out or bind either one. Because you are fitting a poor camber curve you will need to run lots of static camber, but this will depend partly on tire choice.
    Chris "The Cat Killer" Childs
    Angry Sheep Motorsports
    810 417 7777
    angrysheepmotorsports.com

    IT,SM,SS,Touring, and Super Touring

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
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    7,381

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    Me? Cynical? You don't know me too well...

    Tell you one thing: had I kept the NX I'd have dropped a $6k set of Koni 2817 struts all the way around on that thing...and it would have friggin' FLOWN around Road Atlanta!!! Instead, I had to "make do" with custom-valved Koni 8611s (valving and spring rates, I might add, that Lee *still* doesn't understand how I made work)...

    Just sayin'.

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