Bought a 88 CRX SI ITA car

[quadzjr]

yes.. in ITA you can use 7" wide wheels.

15x7 are a common wheel size.

in ITB you can run a 15x6

[Davegt74]

yes.. in ITA you can use 7" wide wheels.

15x7 are a common wheel size.

in ITB you can run a 15x6

so you can run 14x7 rims also?

also are the front hubs a hi failure item

with 61% weight at the front I can see how they would fail all the time

is this a dangerous condition I mean would a hub failure cause a crash?

thanks
David

[quadzjr]

yes in ITa you can run 14x7. rule of thumb is you can run teh same diameter as stock or 15". 7" width maximum.

Hubs need to be inspected often, some replace more than others, just keep an eye on them. They are becoming more and more rare, and are not that cheap.

Hub failure can result in a crash, depending on where on track it brakes and how.

[iambhooper]

are hubs getting hard to find for the 2nd gen CRX? i know they are o the 1st gen.

[Xian]

You can still get hubs from the dealer for the EF.

14x7's are fine. I wouldn't worry about the corner weight and tire capacity... it's a non issue. You don't want 15x7's b/c fitting 225/45 Hoosiers is a real PITA on the rear. It can be done but the offset is crucial and they still barely fit. The 14's are going to be just as fast but easier to get on the car.

4.7 FD is the best "all around" although different options may be better for specific tracks.

The weight adjustment was part of the Great Re-alignment. The CRX was one of the bogey's for the class and the weight really hasn't slowed them down.

Sphericals are good but especially important in the radius rods. You can run a mix of OEM and poly on the rest and be just fine.

IT allows a shit-ton of development and parts. You can spend some serious cubic-dollars when looking at a full prep car.

Christian

[Davegt74]

14x7's are fine. I wouldn't worry about the corner weight and tire capacity... it's a non issue. You don't want 15x7's b/c fitting 225/45 Hoosiers is a real PITA on the rear. It can be done but the offset is crucial and they still barely fit. The 14's are going to be just as fast but easier to get on the car.

good points, spent some time looking for some 14x7" rims but as luck would have it i cant find anyone that sells the lightest ones listed on wheel wts.net

4.7 FD is the best "all around" although different options may be better for specific tracks.

the guy that sold me the car tried to sell me a 4.7FD but I did not have any more money also I figured since its a Honda they should be easy to get.

The weight adjustment was part of the Great Re-alignment. The CRX was one of the bogey's for the class and the weight really hasn't slowed them down.

Sphericals are good but especially important in the radius rods. You can run a mix of OEM and poly on the rest and be just fine.

I had to look up what a radius rod is but it should be easy to make one (other cars call them strut rods)

IT allows a shit-ton of development and parts. You can spend some serious cubic-dollars when looking at a full prep car.

hope its less then the FP/GTL cars (one guy e-mailed me and said unless I am dynoing 7 motors in the off season forget about GT)

I know I wont be some hot shoe so my goal for this car is to just make it faster then it was when I first got the car

if I can figure out how to hook up my narrow band AFR meter then I can work on the very rich mixture it has now

thanks
David

[Xian]

14x7 Team Dynamics are plenty light and strong. They're also not terribly expensive.

Yep, 4.7FD isn't too hard to find. Plenty of folks make them... do a little searching/asking to see which will be the best blend of price and reliability. I'd suggest having it cryo'd and REM'd while your at it.

Radius Rods are the ones that go "forward" off your front LCA's to the front subframe. Progress Suspension makes a kit or you can make your own.

Yes, less than FP/GTL but still quite a bit if you want to go full-tilt-boogy. If you're running a stock ECU along with aftermarket intake/header/exhaust, I wouldn't worry too much about AFR being too rich. They make good power in that configuration and there's no sense leaning it out when that could impact reliability. IIRC, the stock ECU doesn't look at the o2 sensor at full throttle anyway... just runs the regular "open loop" program.

[USGUYS]

DAVE
I ran CRX in ITA for a number of years. I have converted my cars to FP. I would happy to tell you some of the mistakes and good ideas we developed over the year.
I also have two sets of 14X7 Panasports Rallye wheels that I would be happy to sell. I use 13X7 in FP.
My best finish with the cars was a 2nd place at the June Sprints, running the car only slightly changed from ITA specs. I even ran the Hoosier DOTs.
My e-mail is [email protected].
Good Luck
Tony Machi