TST - ITR Mustang Acquired

[Knestis]

I don't think you're allowed to remove the anti-theft module in IT...

<runs, ducks for cover>

K

[Ron Earp]

I don't think you're allowed to remove the anti-theft module in IT...

<runs, ducks for cover>

K

That thing is a goner. When I take it out I'll send it to you.

My guess is 3160 lbs with a full tank of gas.

Chris, how much is yours weighing in at?

[RedMisted]

My guess is 3160 lbs with a full tank of gas.

Chris, how much is yours weighing in at?

My quote of 3,050 I saw somewhere online, at one of those new/used car review websites. The number is supposed to be "curb" weight.

My race car tips the scales at about 3,040. That includes driver and just fumes in the tank. You guessed earlier that 2900 is a realistic goal for our cars. I think you're right on, as I could:
1) get some lightweight wheels (should shave 25 lbs.)
2) run Hoosiers instead of heavier Toyos (12 lbs.)
3) remove sound deadening from trunk of car and tranny tunnel (maybe 7 lbs?)
4) acid dip the car (conservative guess of 50 lbs.)
5) I'm slightly overweight (could lose another 5 lbs.)
6) Chucking three fender liners (8 lbs.)
That leaves about 30 more pounds to take out. This would be all the redundant wiring hiding under the dash, cutting down some fasteners, replacing certain existing parts with lighter components, tossing a few trim pieces still inside the car, chucking the rocker panels (they do nothing but collect track grit anyway), etc.

I know. I know. I should already have much of the above out of the car. But that's what you get when you're like lazy old me.

[Ron Earp]

My race car tips the scales at about 3,040. That includes driver and just fumes in the tank. You guessed earlier that 2900 is a realistic goal for our cars.

How much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking? If you're only around 5 lbs overweight then I imagine you're in the 150-180lb range, which means a Mustang might be a hard car to get to a decent weight for a large driver. I'm right around 175 lbs and need to be at about 160lbs.

Some other ideas:

Have you removed all the HVAC you legally can?

Light seat?

Light steering wheel/hub adapter?

Cage was designed for as much lightness as possible with 1.5" x 0.095" tube? That will save quite a bit over the 1.75" tube, 13% cage weight specifically if all things are equal.

Both doors gutted?

Stock tank or cell?

Using essential gauges only, using light components? Remove all the stock gauges and hardware when you install your own gauges.

Ditch the parking brake?

All emissions stuff?

Exhaust designed with thin wall tubing?

Shop up a light battery? I know it has to fit the requirements but there is a lot of variation if you drive around to a lot of stores and weigh them.

Light weight lug nuts? I just ditched 1.2 lb using ally lugs in place of some heavy steelies I had.

I know all that stuff is small potatoes but sooner or later a lot of small potatoes adds up to a casserole. Added to the list of some big items you already have you could be knocking 150 lbs out of the car.

[RedMisted]

I weigh about 155, should be 150. I'm a road cyclist, have lost about 10 lbs. since August. Should lose the five lbs. easily before the first races up here in May/June.

Looking at your list, everything pretty much good, except that I've got the stock tank, a Sparco Evo seat, standard battery from AutoZone, stock gauges, door panels above the NASCAR bars, and the parking brake.

I'll take care of the big stuff first before worrying about things like the gauges. And then I'll eat the whole friggin' casserole! (Wait. I'll probably gain back some of the 10 lbs. if I do that.)

[Ron Earp]

Looking at your list, everything pretty much good, except that I've got the stock tank, a Sparco Evo seat,

And the cell might not help, just depends on the stock tank. I'll weigh a buddy of mine's 12 gal cell that he's getting ready to put into his car. Then you could compare to the stock tank. I'd imagine the stock tank is steel and in the 25-30 lbs range.

On the seat you can probably lose weight. Sparco EVO isn't light at 19 lbs without brackets, and not inexpensive, so a lighter options can probably save your wallet too. A few of the ally seats can get you down in the 12-13 lbs range, with covers and brackets. I recently got a Ultrashield ally seat for my Lola replica and it is right at 11.7 lbs with the brackets and required brace welded on the seat - it was altered to adjust layback and lost a tiny bit of weight in that process.

I know the cage isn't adjustable at this point but how did you guys make out there? BillF suggested the cage will be a big deal and I think that'll be the case. Minimalistic but safe.

[cjb25hs]

I weigh about 155, should be 150. I'm a road cyclist, have lost about 10 lbs. since August. Should lose the five lbs. easily before the first races up here in May/June.

Looking at your list, everything pretty much good, except that I've got the stock tank, a Sparco Evo seat, standard battery from AutoZone, stock gauges, door panels above the NASCAR bars, and the parking brake.

I'll take care of the big stuff first before worrying about things like the gauges. And then I'll eat the whole friggin' casserole! (Wait. I'll probably gain back some of the 10 lbs. if I do that.)

Chris, doesn't your car still have much of the rear stock exhaust? You could loose all of the xtra piping there, just run to dynomax small diameters under the car midway back with turndowns, that should save another 10-15lbs possibly.

[RedMisted]

Chris, doesn't your car still have much of the rear stock exhaust? You could loose all of the xtra piping there, just run to dynomax small diameters under the car midway back with turndowns, that should save another 10-15lbs possibly.

That's all gone now. Double pipes/mufflers replaced with singles and the cats have been deleted. The exhaust changes lost me about 35 pounds. I also chucked the manifolds for long tubes.

BillF: Be careful if you swap to long tube headers. I bought off-the-shelf headers from Pacesetter and they hung about 2.4 inches off the ground. I had a race shop modify them to get them up another inch. A better bet is to have customs made for your car as there is alot of room under the floorpan for maximum clearance.

Ron: My cage weighs a bit more than most. I have very tight fitments to maximize safety. In fact, with the doors closed you might be hard pressed to see the cage in the car unless you got real close. McMahan Autosports near Akron, OH built my cage. They're recoginized as one of the finest cage builders in this region. They build cages for several Koni and World Challenge teams.

[dickita15]

I don't think you're allowed to remove the anti-theft module in IT...

<runs, ducks for cover>

K

9.1.3 e. Any ignition system which utilizes the original distributor for spark timing and distribution is permitted.