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Thread: Kill switch wiring

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    5

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    It can be as easy as simply adding a little child and a transient (normally open) switch. Look for the sign "hot" exhaust - is a cable that goes from the center of the leg volume control, and ends at the end "tab on the outlet. Now, add a cable, for example, during the volume control, and welding of this cable to switch (either legs up). Then another wire bond for the remaining leg (the two who want to use) the switch and solder the other end to ground.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    FL.
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    1,384

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    If you break the neg side and break the fuel pump ground wire at the same time, the car shuts off, fuel flow stops , and the whole wire system has better crash resistance. Smashing the ground wire into bodywork wont start a fire. This also avoids the big hassle of the alt contining to run the car.
    The Bosch alt are often self exciting/ firing at around 3200=4000rpm . Check yours. Most will start without a light/exciter wire. For the few that need a light , I use two side marker light sockets and bulbs. The diode is in the alt , glowing the bulbs, key on engine off. When the car/alt fires, the lights go out.
    I use this method for the ministock that needs to make a vacuuum rule. I need the alt load to increase the vacuuum so that I can use more cam.
    I use two bulbs, because if one burns out the alt will not fire and the car wont make vac, costing me a DQ and money..
    FWIW, many race cars have the starter power bypassing the bat break. The break switch does not like the high amps for very long and often results in a no start on the grid with 2 to go.
    I dont condone this wiring, but my endurance car has the bat switch that can be bypassed really quickly.
    HTH, MM
    Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Somewhere in Upstate New York
    Posts
    1,033

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    Quote Originally Posted by keilysmith View Post
    It can be as easy as simply adding a little child and a transient (normally open) switch. Look for the sign "hot" exhaust - is a cable that goes from the center of the leg volume control, and ends at the end "tab on the outlet. Now, add a cable, for example, during the volume control, and welding of this cable to switch (either legs up). Then another wire bond for the remaining leg (the two who want to use) the switch and solder the other end to ground.

    kielysmith = [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6D1YI-41ao[/ame]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,381

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    As long as we're sullying the topic...I'll match your Hungarian with a Turbo Encabulator...

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLDgQg6bq7o[/ame]

    ...and raise you a Retro Encabulator.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXJKdh1KZ0w[/ame]

    (it's funny as hell when John and I think of the same things... )

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