http://www.gatorracingaxles.com
Don't lower the car more than 5" at the top of the pinch weld.
Ensure you have good motor mounts.
GA
Administrator
http://www.gatorracingaxles.com
Don't lower the car more than 5" at the top of the pinch weld.
Ensure you have good motor mounts.
GA
Senior Member
If it's just torn boots then Vent the boots to make sure you aren't just blowing the thing from vapor pressure. Cut the clamp on the shaft side (small diameter end) and slip a small brass pipe from a model store or straw from a can of brake cleaner in a pinch. Reclamp with zip ties or the appropriate band clamp. See if that helps them last. Greg hit on the larger scope mechanical wear affecting items but solved similar issues to those you describe this way.
Administrator
Good point. From the description I was assuming mechanical failure...Originally Posted by Chip42
Without vent tube...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WC3XpTbwtg
Junior Member
Ah good advice... the ride height should be at 5 or above. I do have to check the mounts, if the motor is jumping around that could really be a problem. Have you used the Gator axles before? Do they last a good long time? Do you have an idea of the cost?
Administrator
Gator is a good company, good service, good pricing. Axle rebuilds are typically in the hundred-dollar range (call them for exact details). I've been using them for a couple years now, been extremely happy with their quality and service. I regularly send them axles for inspection/repair/repack.
I suggest scouring junkyards for a spare pair of OE axles; you can usually identify them via the paint marks on the shaft. Send those to them and keep handy as spares.
Other racers also like to use Raxles (http://www.raxles.com/).
Junior Member
Ahhh... now I realize that I have to clearify. The first one the boot tore flung grease everywhere and then the bearing failed. The car took a hard left at the top of the esses, caught it before it hit the wall (real scary) . The second one the boot just tore bearing didn't fail yet. I heard the straw/tube thing before, might have to try that too.
Administrator
Left axle, inner boot? That was my nemesis: I was tearing boots every weekend which got worse when I started doing the longer National/Majors races. Raxles claimed I was running the car too low (I wasn't), Gator thought I might be picking up road debris (with a full undertray?) That's when I moved my GoPro to under the car and saw it happening (see video above).
Brass tube under the smaller end of the inner boot resolved it completely. I believe Gator does this for all axles now.
GA
Junior Member
Greg, just realized that you put the video on there. Watching now... at what minute mark do things start to go bad?
Administrator
C'mon, man, enjoy the suspense!!
Don't remember exactly...the boot grows gradually from internal pressure to somewhere around 25 minutes? At that point it expands and contacts the block then goes poof and back to its original shape. FF until you see grease on the orange brake hoses then back up.
Senior Member
On our Grand Am Type R we weren't running enough air ducting to the front rotors to keep them cool. Radiant heat from the rotors were melting the boots enough that they failed and spit out the grease. The radiant heat also melted the ABS sensor wires. We had to add ducting and heat shields to solve the boot problems.
Senior Member
+1
Glenn Wilson is the man. Dunde Gator @ aol. com
His road racing axles are reliable. They are heavier than stock. Absolutely not a performance enhancer. Protest me, pinch that spot, ask me to rotate my head, tell me to cough and all that. See ya at the track soon.
Demetrius Mossaidis aka 'Mickey' #12 ITA NESCCA
'92 Honda Civic Si
STFU and "Then write a letter. www.crbscca.com"
2013 ITA NARRC Champion and I have not raced since.
Senior Member
The only time I have seen an inner boot failure was on account of my motor/tranny mount coming apart.
Ugh!!
But actually, the car ran OK in such state.
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