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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Lilburn, GA
    Posts
    597

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    Wheel bearings - check 'em. If there's too much play replace.

    Suspension - check all your ball joints, etc. Replace as needed.

    Brakes - Some people rebuild each year. I went three years without any issues. Your mileage may vary.

    Motor - Change the oil. Check the oil pump. Dunno, I haven't done anything to mine other than oil changes since I got it. I have a top-build motor, though. Tristan has a built motor for sale in the classifieds if you just want a motor.

    Transmission - Put in some good gear oil. There's been a couple discussions on what people use so do a search. Mine works fine after several racing seasons.

    Differential - You need a limited slip if you don't have one. The Nismo clutch type are the way to go. Put in some good gear oil and change it once or twice during the season. The diffs get pretty hot.

    I do a once over at the beginning of the season, change all the fluids, and call it good to go. I replace things as needed.

    David
    ITA 240SX #17
    Atlanta Region

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    28

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    Thanks guys, all good to know. I figured wheel bearings might be a bit of a thing cause of the weight of the car...

    and the radiator has a pinhole leak in one corner so I don't know how to repair that effectively (JB weld apparently didn't work super great).

    No oil cooler, anyone know of a cheapie I can pick up and plumb in ? I assume I should use a sandwich plate, but tell me if there's some more creative way. Suggestions on a place to buy?

    I think I can keep the revs in check so I'm not super worried about valve float, "I'm gonna take it easy during this race"

    Well... hmm... will check out the built motor, but I'm pretty sure it'll be out of my league at this point.

    Thanks guys!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Atlanta, GA usa
    Posts
    677

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    The biggest problem with these cars is heat. They are big truck motors, and when you start to rev them high they make a ton of heat. So make sure your radiator is in good working order, and get an oil cooler plumbed in.

    Other than that, the motor's are pretty reliable. Like they said above, check the wheel bearings for play. Over the years I had to occasionally change bearings/hubs.

    I always had problems with starters. They would get hot and wouldn't turn over.

    I have rebuilt the brakes once, but as long as you are ducting them, they shouldn't give you any problems. Make sure you get a set of the ABS calipers and rotors if you don't already have them. They are beefier and can handle more heat.

    Transmissions will last as long as they aren't high mileage. I think most of the problems we have with them is that we grab junk yard trannies with a bazillion miles already on them.

    Not to turn this into an ad, but I have a bunch of spares listed in the "Parts for sale" section.

    In general, the 240sxs are good handling cars that can be competitive in ITA, so enjoy.
    Tristan Smith
    1991 Nissan ITR 300zx #56

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidM View Post
    Wheel bearings - check 'em. If there's too much play replace.
    Wow - are the ITA wheel bearings weaker than the later ITS ones? I've been running my car for years now....including several 12/13 hour enduros and never replaced one wheel bearing.

    As a matter of fact....I don't know that I've replaced them since I bought the car with > 155k miles on it....

    Not saying it is not a possible problem - just surprised I have not had a problem when running the enduros.

    >Suspension - check all your ball joints, etc. Replace as needed.

    Especially the big rubber subframe bushings in the rear. They start to crack and get real messy if you haven't replaced them with something more solid. If the rear feels skittish, but you have a good rear alignment - this might be the problem.

    >Transmission - Put in some good gear oil. There's been a couple discussions on what >people use so do a search. Mine works fine after several racing seasons.

    I've been running the stock trans on Redline MT90 - again for about 4 years now, and in several enduros. Thing probably has over 180k miles on it now. So second on the decent fluids.

    >Differential - You need a limited slip if you don't have one. The Nismo clutch type are >the way to go. Put in some good gear oil and change it once or twice during the >season. The diffs get pretty hot.

    VERY! I can only speak from the enduro experience - I've smoked a lot of different fluids looking for something that works well. At one point someone on the list had suggested the Mobile 1 Synthetic 80w140. I switched to that - and it works fantastic. I forget how bad diff fluid smells when it gets > 300 deg....

    I will also second the notes on how hot these things tend to run. Big radiator is a must.

    Along with that - get the car run at least one time on a dyno with a wideband O2 sensor. Not for the power number, but to see what your AFR is. The cars run even hotter when you start to run lean with them. Mine had this problem, and it turned out to be the aftermarket fuel pump. I would now only recommend Nissan-only fuel pumps. Had I not wideband dyno'd the car, most likely would have melted some piston tops.


    joe
    #13 ITS S13 Nissan 240SX

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    28

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    I'll have to take a look at the front wheel bearings (or do you mean rear too?).. thanks for the advice. At a minimum I can repack 'em.... any suggestions on the best grease to use?

    The radiator has a PIN hole (it apparently steams ever so slightly only at HOT) so I'm not sure I should worry about it other than to check the coolant every race and go go go...

    I'm guessing I should add an oil cooler (there isn't one) because of the multiple heat comments... Any suggestions on placement and place to get a cheap decent one? And, should I use a sandwich plate or some other way to plumb it in? If so, anyone got any recommendations on places to buy online?

    Cheers all,
    Justin

  6. #6

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    If the car has been raced check the clutch/pressure plate if not replaced recently you may want to inspect/replace, also the brake master and slave cylinder. rebuild kits are cheap and a lot easier to replace at home vs track. We always do yearly look at clutch/pressure plate flywheel. also u joints/cvs carry spares with you they always fail at the most inopertune times! Same said for the hoses and water pump and belts! you can never have to many spares. Check the run out on your roters if they are slightly warped the will eat up a set of pads fast.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    7,031

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    I can't wait to drive this car!!!
    Andy Bettencourt
    New England Region 188967

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Why does that sound ominous when you say it Andy ??
    Justin
    90 Nissan 240sx #87

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