Used Mobil 10 x 30 for 6 years on CRX with quaif. Never changed it, never had a problem. I can recommend it.
Used Mobil 10 x 30 for 6 years on CRX with quaif. Never changed it, never had a problem. I can recommend it.
Runaway from Redline MT-90 or Honda MTL. The Honda fluid is too thin and the Redline fluid attacks the plastic bearing cages.
10w30, Pennzoil Synchromesh, Torco MTF, Torco RTF, Amsoil, in that order from cheapest to most expensive.
Will you be at IT Fest next weekend? I hope to make it up Saturday night but if it is hot I'll sneak in Sunday morning.
I also plan on attending the NASA Nats in September to help out Sam Myers and others. I saved Colin Brotha's weekend last year by bring a shifter fork assembly with me and installing it Sat. night so he could race on Sunday.
BoneSpec Transmissions
Honda D-series tranny specialist
Thanks for the info! I will look into those fluids.
I have had Redline MT-90 in there for almost a year and a half. Curious how long does it take for the bearing cages to fail in MT-90 if they are plastic? Seems like it would have already failed by now.
Ya I will be at ITfest. Probably headed down Friday afternoon to set up.
Last edited by darthmonkeyIT; 07-23-2012 at 09:28 AM.
When you take apart your tranny, you will find plastic shavings in your oil passages.
Demetrius Mossaidis aka 'Mickey' #12 ITA NESCCA
'92 Honda Civic Si
STFU and "Then write a letter. www.crbscca.com"
2013 ITA NARRC Champion and I have not raced since.
Ok so I have now run around the internet (possibly twice) and can find references for Redline MTL/MT-90 in Honda trans good and bad.
I am looking to pick up some different trans fluid to try for this weekend and have access to Pennzoil Syncromesh, Torco MTF, or Torco RGO (racing gear oil) in two different weights; 80W90 or 85W140.
Is Torco MTF ok with a LSD or should I be using a RGO?
RGO comes in 80W90 or 85W140; Not sure which to get if I should get RGO but leaning towards 80W90.
Pennzoil I can pick up at the local Autoshop for about ~$4 cheaper a bottle then Torco.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
These trannys are simple, no real need for special fluids although folks like to spend the dollars for it.
I used to keep busy replacing ISB (Input Shaft Bearings) at 75-90k miles of autoxers who switch to Redline street fluids at first service interval. Since I've notice the issue and have seen the bleaching of the cages, posted it and suggested NOT to use it, I've replaced a lot less ISB's, sorta shot myself in the foot and killed A LOT of business!
I do this as a side hobby, my rates are fair as Dan can attest. If you wish to tackle this on your own and are not local feel free to ask but please post pics that I can see, aka tranny porn as I call it.
I've walked someone from Pretoria, South Africa to assemble a basket case of a Honda tranny. It did that some time due to the time differences but it was a success.
BoneSpec Transmissions
Honda D-series tranny specialist
Does the Honda trans need an EP additive with Mobil 1 10w30? What about if it has a clutch-type diff? And is Syncromexh any better (Never heard of Torco)?
Looking to install the B-series trans into the Integra this week, trying to decide what to use. I've been using Honda MTL. - GA
MTL, pisswater thin, doesn't hold up very well.
What fluid does the diff maker suggest?
5w30 Synchromesh + 1/3 tube of Posi additive is what I used with my Kaaz, JBH also used it in Pebble. IMHO it would bee too thin due to the heat you will be seeing.
I've wanted to try 15w40 for diesels with their extra additives before it is phased out as well.
tGA, these are simple creatures. For what you'd pay for Torco RTF ($21/quart) you could use 3x Synchromesh ($7/quart) or 8x 10w30 ($2.50/quart).
BoneSpec Transmissions
Honda D-series tranny specialist
I tend to agree with the above sentiment. Even though the trans was out only to replace the clutch, I asked Kessler to pull the case cover and check out the innards; I had driven it pretty hard at the race at the Glen with that bum clutch.
Since posting above I got the news: da innards was ugly. 3-4 syncro hub and sleeves were "toast", and 1-2 and 5-R looked like they had 60,000 miles on them. I did drive it pretty hard at the Glen, but with a very similar technique as you would without a clutch, patience going up and zipping the throttle going down. There was some "conflict" in the process, but what I saw on the 3-4 assembly resembled more years of street abuse than 45 minutes of racing abuse. And, the 3-4 upshift always "grunched" on me a little bit, even when this trans was new (I bought the ITR trans brandy-new from Honda in 2010).
I'm replacing 3-4 syncro assembly and will try something different than Honda MTL; I like your syncromesh+additive above. I'll contact OS Giken and see what they recommend for their LSD.
GA
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