Rolling Fenders

B

backformore

New member
When rolling fender lips for tire clearance is it generally accepted to cut the lip into smaller segments to facilitate bending or does the lip have to be left intact? Getting the intact lip rolled is proving to be a real challenge without deforming the fender.
 
if the fender is plastic, you are specifically allowed to cut it. if it's metal, that's not supposed to happen. but if the end result is the same, and there IS rolled metal and a smooth edge all the way across, I say go for it. if there's a sharp edge, it's wrong, IMHO.

and as always, that's only my opinion of what would be found acceptable by most, not a "legal" ruling.
 
"Fenders and wheel openings shall remain unmodified. It is
permitted to roll under or flatten any interior lip on the wheel
opening for tire clearance."

I would suggest, to the letter of the regs, you cannot section the fender lip to make it easier to roll. In reality it makes no difference and IMO provides no performance advantage , but doing so places you in a position that is technically non-compliant.

GA
 
As a matter of fact...cutting would only promote corrosion.

Buy or rent a proper fender roller. A lot of the "Tuner" shops provide that tool and they work well...better than a baseball bat.
 
I've rolled a fair share of fenders and never had a problem having to section any metal parts to get it to work. sometimes it takes a little extra time to work and stretch the metal, but it's doable..

I would also be worried about cutting a tire on one of the sharp edges. it's amazing how much the tires flex in a corner and even with rolled fenders that have 1/2" clearance with the wheels straight ahead, I still have rub marks on the inside of the fenders where I rolled them. I've caught the lip a couple times on the tire and yanked the lip down, leaving a small (1/8" deep) cut in the edge of the tire. I can forsee bigger problems if you section the lip to try to get it to roll better.
 
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A fender roller as mentioned above will do a LOT. I've mashed the lip completely flat on the inside and even pulled the fenders about 1/4" on one car. I wouldn't say stretching/pulling them is legal in IT (I'm about 98% sure that's not OK), but it's doable with the proper roller.
 
Add heat and large hammer inside of the lip, smash the outside.
Reverse hammers, reapeat. drink a beer.
Do over as the last one wil make the first one look crappy,
 
I thought you just jammed a jack handle or aluminum baseball bat in between the tire and the fender, then rolled the car back & forth.

To be fancy, and if you happen to think of it before the new fender is hung on the car, place a beach towel on the concrete floor, put the fender outside-down on the towel and start carefully hammering w/ a rubber mallet. If you're careful, this can actually be done w/o damaging the primer and get's another item in the Hitch-Hiker's Guide for how to use your towel.
 
So when rolling a fender, do you put something between the flattened lip and the outside of the fender to keep it from rusting?? Seam sealer??
 
MMiskoe said:
...before the new fender is hung on the car, place a beach towel on the concrete floor, put the fender outside-down on the towel and start carefully hammering w/ a rubber mallet. If you're careful, this can actually be done w/o damaging the primer and get's another item in the Hitch-Hiker's Guide for how to use your towel.
Click to expand...

Just did that this week with a new fender for the STL car. Instead of a towel, I used a big fluffy beanbag chair and an orange rubber mallet from Harbor Freight. Unfortunately, I did crack the paint, but it's a race car so I'll survive with some rattle-can repair...

GA
 
Greg Amy said:
Just did that this week with a new fender for the STL car. Instead of a towel, I used a big fluffy beanbag chair and an orange rubber mallet from Harbor Freight. Unfortunately, I did crack the paint, but it's a race car so I'll survive with some rattle-can repair...

GA
Click to expand...
i have found a full bag of Oil-Dri a good work surface that this type of work.
 
All great suggestions. Thanks. Unfortunately the front fenders are the easy one. One later of thin metal that can be removed from the car. It's the rears that are a pain. Multiple layers and seams permanently attached.
 
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