ITS Ford Mustang(s) Build - Stripper Stang Part II

[JeffYoung]

Burns and the old HeaderDesign software (now defunct) both kicked out a single exit with a y pipe for my car (V8) as well. The exhaust note on my car is pretty mean, sounds very Winston Cupish as I think the basic design is that merge collector system than Runt Pittman put together with them in the early 90s. I have a number of different diameters in my pipes as well, nice smooth transitions, a y pipe and the a single exit.

I'm pretty convinced the single biggest HP improvement I saw on my car was the exhaust as it is tuned to move the torque peak up and thus peak HP up.

[Ron Earp]

First up is the homemade driver cooling system, EarpCool V2.0. A few people have asked me details about making one of these and instead of writing about it I took pictures while I assembled it this weekend.

All you need is a cooler ($8), hose ($5), insulation for the hose ($7), a live well pump ($19, bought the good one), assorted pvc barbs/hose clamps ($3), and to make it like the real deal, some dry break connectors (~$20) that you can purchase here:


Everything else you can get from WallyWorld and you should be under $60 all in, including the connectors. If you spent more than that then you did something wrong.

Pictures should pretty much tell the tale.

[Ron Earp]

Part Two:

[Ron Earp]

Part Three:





You might need to use tape as a bushing to get that little plastic barb to fit in there correctly. Apply some epoxy and call it a day.

[Ron Earp]

Part Four



And no, I have not noticed any difference in water temps by bundling the lines. I am sure there is, but these things are plenty cold.





Very light. Weight with lines, pump, and lid was just under five pounds.

[Ron Earp]

Part Five



I put rivnuts into the steel floor to mount the cooler. Then I drilled down through the cooler and attach the unit that way. So that the bolts don't become heat sinks I bond foam and silicone over the top of them (not done yet) to insulate them from the ice water.

It was a difficult thing to work in the trunk area for the wiring and plumbing of the fire bottle and cooler system.





You can see the bolt heads and the sealing silicone in the bottom of the unit.

And, tada, all done.



Now, if you think about it ahead of time you can properly position that spigot on the side so you can drain the water out of it. All I have to to is pull up that rubber connector seal, push the button, and the water will drain out through the bottom of the car.

[joeg]

Ron--You make a great teacher.

The real weight of the device is with the ice water, however.