Honda CRX Si Brake Woes

[chuck baader]

You are throwing money away...see post # 1,4,7,8,9,11.Chuck

[darthmonkeyIT]

You are throwing money away...see post # 1,4,7,8,9,11.Chuck

Haven't thrown any more away since i started this post.

Currently determining where to order the booster from. HPD was out so I am looking at a rebuild. Pretty much A-1 Cardone from all the auto guys or a third party HPD recommended I speak with.

[rice_classic]

Currently determining where to order the booster from. HPD was out so I am looking at a rebuild. Pretty much A-1 Cardone from all the auto guys or a third party HPD recommended I speak with.

If I were you and I'm not, here's how I would go about it by addressing the whole damn system:

1: Address Booster. Either replace bad vacuum line or replace booster and in that process it might be worth bench bleeding the MC.

2: STOP disposing of your brake fluid when bleeding (unless it's OLD and USED). If you're bleeding and bleeding and bleeding you're essentially throwing away unused, good fluid. Just catch it in a clean container as it leaves the caliper and put it back in the MC.

2a: Buy the Stainless Steel speed bleeders and follow their instructions closely. They should be the 10x1.25 size. They work great. I replaced my MC, 4 bleeder valves (Speed bleeders) and 1 caliper. With the speed bleeders (and reusing the new fluid after it left the caliper), I was able to bleed each corner, by myself, 12 times with half a can of ATE. Rock solid pedal. PS: Most people complain about Speed Bleeders for 2 reason: 1: they introduce air and 2: they strip. On 1: they don't introduce air if you read the instructions because it is stated that after a lot of use they need to be removed, threads cleaned, thread sealer reapplied and then baked int he oven for 10 minutes and reinstalled. 2: The don't need to be tightened by the incredible hulk. Also the SS ones are a bit stronger in case your crew person has a habit of over tightening. Also, bleed your brakes with new pads installed! That helps me considerably as the pedal will feel firmer at the top of its stroke when the system if free of air because the piston doesn't have to move as far so you'll have a better feel of when you've completed your task.

3: Rotors and Pads. I've been running the cheap China rotors and the are awful however my co-racer has run the expensive Cryo stuff with no improved value. They lasted no differently and performed no differently then a good Centric Premium or a good Brembo Blank. I wouldn't waste the $$ on the cryo as a 9.5" rotor, cryo or not, isn't going to have a long lifespan. You can do your own cost benefit analysis here.

4: Brake ducts. Not only is is good for braking but it will also lengthen the life of the hub and bearing. The trick is routing and of all the things I've tried in the past this works best for me: Instead of just cooling the inside blade of the rotor it blows air at the center of things including the hub.



5: It is possible that you boiled fluid. If you're something off the shelf you might want to consider a higher temp fluid like ATE Super Blue or Motul 600.

6: During race weekends I will flip my pads in the caliper (so the inside is now the outside pad). This evens out taper and increases the life of the pads as well. (won't help you in this initial soft pedal dilemma).


I still believe that it's your booster or vacuum to your booster. Good luck!

[darthmonkeyIT]

If I were you and I'm not, here's how I would go about it by addressing the whole damn system:

1: Address Booster. Either replace bad vacuum line or replace booster and in that process it might be worth bench bleeding the MC.

2: STOP disposing of your brake fluid when bleeding (unless it's OLD and USED). If you're bleeding and bleeding and bleeding you're essentially throwing away unused, good fluid. Just catch it in a clean container as it leaves the caliper and put it back in the MC.

2a: Buy the Stainless Steel speed bleeders and follow their instructions closely. They should be the 10x1.25 size. They work great. I replaced my MC, 4 bleeder valves (Speed bleeders) and 1 caliper. With the speed bleeders (and reusing the new fluid after it left the caliper), I was able to bleed each corner, by myself, 12 times with half a can of ATE. Rock solid pedal. PS: Most people complain about Speed Bleeders for 2 reason: 1: they introduce air and 2: they strip. On 1: they don't introduce air if you read the instructions because it is stated that after a lot of use they need to be removed, threads cleaned, thread sealer reapplied and then baked int he oven for 10 minutes and reinstalled. 2: The don't need to be tightened by the incredible hulk. Also the SS ones are a bit stronger in case your crew person has a habit of over tightening. Also, bleed your brakes with new pads installed! That helps me considerably as the pedal will feel firmer at the top of its stroke when the system if free of air because the piston doesn't have to move as far so you'll have a better feel of when you've completed your task.

3: Rotors and Pads. I've been running the cheap China rotors and the are awful however my co-racer has run the expensive Cryo stuff with no improved value. They lasted no differently and performed no differently then a good Centric Premium or a good Brembo Blank. I wouldn't waste the $$ on the cryo as a 9.5" rotor, cryo or not, isn't going to have a long lifespan. You can do your own cost benefit analysis here.

4: Brake ducts. Not only is is good for braking but it will also lengthen the life of the hub and bearing. The trick is routing and of all the things I've tried in the past this works best for me: Instead of just cooling the inside blade of the rotor it blows air at the center of things including the hub.



5: It is possible that you boiled fluid. If you're something off the shelf you might want to consider a higher temp fluid like ATE Super Blue or Motul 600.

6: During race weekends I will flip my pads in the caliper (so the inside is now the outside pad). This evens out taper and increases the life of the pads as well. (won't help you in this initial soft pedal dilemma).


I still believe that it's your booster or vacuum to your booster. Good luck!

Awesome info! Thank you! I have ordered a new booster and currently run ATE Super Blue/2000 fluid.

As rotors go thanks for the tip about the types. I had a feeling changing rotors types wasn't going to make much of a difference verse getting more cooling to the brakes.

The tip about bleeding with full pads is interesting. I had not thought about that.

I am also ordering some high temp brake duct along with some aluminum plate to build larger air deflectors. I am looking into how to route the ducting so it has some durability and just doesn't fall apart after 10 laps.

[pavis]

agree with majority. replace the booster. similar problems in my crx. problem now solved.

[USGUYS]

I don't think anyone mentioned rear wheel bearings. Just like the front, if they are loose they cause the rear brake pads to be kicked back too much. This causes a long or soft pedal too. It is the first thing we look at if the pedal gets long. Never had a booster failure.

[darthmonkeyIT]

I don't think anyone mentioned rear wheel bearings. Just like the front, if they are loose they cause the rear brake pads to be kicked back too much. This causes a long or soft pedal too. It is the first thing we look at if the pedal gets long. Never had a booster failure.

Would a rear wheel bearing still cause a soft pedal with the car stationary? I do not notice a difference between the pedal feel while driving verse the pedal feel up on jack stands in the pits.