"Mentor" sought for 1985 IT-A Rx-7 builder/driver

[G-Man]

Jake's post got me thinking: When we shave tires, maybe we should do the sidewalls?
Thank you for your help, Jake, Andy, and the folks who have PM'ed me.

I do have a good, big radiator. Will check t-stat.
Car runs the early model under-radiator oil cooler.
I've seen Jim's impressive book.
Making an airdam for brake cooling and radiator flow - have the Mazdacomp rotor ducts. Hawk blue fronts, black rears for now, with cockpit bias adjuster.
Car has the Carter/Holley pump/regulator setup. I run 1oz two-stroke oil per gallon of fuel, normally pump gas or 100LL avgas to avoid vapor lock (5,000' ASL and 100-plus track temps).
Running the Kia Sportage 4.77 LSD.
Front springs 400lbs/in, rears are 175 or 200 lbs/inch. Considering stiffer rears - any suggestions on sources?
What make/model tire do you like?
As a newbie, I wonder if the tri-link $$ is better spent on seat time and coaching?
Can you explain what you mean by "the hole under the thermostat" - is that where a temp sender used to be?
Do folks leave in the factory underhood proportioning valve?
What's a "good oil" - synthetic or not? What weight?
What are the "never exceed" oil and water temps, with temp senders mounted where?
Thanks for the help!

[mbuskuhl]

Can you explain what you mean by "the hole under the thermostat" - is that where a temp sender used to be?

When you take the thermostat out, you will see about a 1/2" hole. When the thermostat is open it blocks the bypass hole, by removing the thermostat you need to block the bypass hole with a 1/2" NPT plug yourself. You don't want the water to "bypass" your radiator.

Do folks leave in the factory underhood proportioning valve?

It is recommended to remove the factory prop valve if installing an adjustable prop valve in the car.

What's a "good oil" - synthetic or not? What weight?

There's a million opinions on brand. If using oil metering pump (OMP), then no synthetic. If disabled, synthetic is fine. 20w50.

What are the "never exceed" oil and water temps, with temp senders mounted where?

According to MazdaComp...

Water, taken at pump outlet, 160-195, 205 max.
Oil, taken in pan, 195-230, max 250.

There are other opinions on these numbers.

[Dano77]

Google bluecoilspring.com, Rear RX7 springs are 5 in by 8in tall

List is around 55 bucks or pay Susko 75+ for the red dot spring in the SSS boxes

[lateapex911]

And whatever you do, do NOT follow a hacks advice (on anything, really, LOL) and use that weld/glue stuff to close up the hole under the thermostat. It will break down over time, and you will chase yourself silly replacing suspect parts as temps continue to rise. However, if you find the real problem last, you WILL have a great cooling system that will keep your engine happy for years, LOL.

[lateapex911]

Google bluecoilspring.com, Rear RX7 springs are 5 in by 8in tall

List is around 55 bucks or pay Susko 75+ for the red dot spring in the SSS boxes

Also, they make (ISC?) cool height adjusters to help you set heights and cornerweight for the rear.

[howler]

The car you have is the 2010 RMD ITA Championship car. It is a proven winner in Colorado sense 2008 when it moved here. It was within 2 tenths of the PMP track record in the ice conditions of the 2009 enduro and it is capable of braking the current track record at HPR (I would be happy to break the record for you in our first race there). It is a proven commodity the way it sits. If you change the setup you won’t know if it is the car or driver that can’t go any faster. I would suggest you leave it alone until you are running the times you know the car can run. Ones you get to this level by all means make changes to suit your needs.

Currently, the only issue with reliability was due to fuel peculation when it was running 85 octane pump gas in 100 degree weather in our high altitude. High octane has cured that. The thermostat is already removed and the bypass plugged. Adding an air dam will also help keep it cooler with our low air density.

Heavier rear spring will make the car more prone to over steer. It is already leaning towards over steer as it is. The only suspension change I would make is a try-link. Even that would change the proven package you have.

Your original post said you want to create a reliable/stable car for learning on a budget. That is what you currently have. If you change it you may move away from this combo and not even know it.

[Dano77]

This Info changes everything. DONT F WITH THE CAR. Sounds like you made the correct choice by purchasing a known piece.

Learn to drive at the cars pace and be consistent, then change to find if it can be better or worse. Hows that for mentoring?

[G-Man]

Howler speaks the truth - it was his car, and he's done 1:51.7 laps on the car during a wintry Enduro while I'm at 1:58.2 (pre-excuses).