Brake flaring tool options, plus how to block ports?

[Matt93SE]

I've been using the flare tool I bought at Autozone for several years now.
I basically did the same thing you're talking about on one car, Made a half dozen or so other lines for friends, and last weekend was using it to flare some 1/2" steel tube for another project.

so far I've only had one fitting leak that, and it was abotu the 3rd one I'd made- was still figuring things out.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=864647_0_0_

Not bad for $20.

[benspeed]

I just re-did a bunch of lines on my motorhome. Bought the cheapo flare kit and I had to reflare two fittings - they failed visual inspection, but all the stuff I installed has been dry. Great skill to teach yourself.

[GTIspirit]

I've been using the flare tool I bought at Autozone for several years now.
I basically did the same thing you're talking about on one car, Made a half dozen or so other lines for friends, and last weekend was using it to flare some 1/2" steel tube for another project.

so far I've only had one fitting leak that, and it was abotu the 3rd one I'd made- was still figuring things out.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=864647_0_0_

Not bad for $20.

I use a similar looking tool bought from NAPA, works great for the double bubble flares used on VW's and I've also used it for the more common inverted flares. Just make sure the brake line is clamped tight into the block because you don't want it to slip back when forming the flare.

Personally I prefer using the coated tubing, nygal/plastic?, which I bought years ago in a bulk roll from the VW dealer. The parts guy probably isn't aware of it so I'd have to look up the part number in my records if you're interested.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the tube nuts should match to the tubing. There are slight differences in the tube nut ID depending on if the tube nut is for coated or bare tubing, or metric or equivalent standard size tubing. You can always buy a section of straight tubing, with flare nuts, from your local parts place and cut and reflare the tubing to size.

Instead of blocking the ports, how about running two separate lines and prop valves to the rear? We did that on an ITB Rabbit and while it doesn't really offer any performance advantage of adjusting right/left rear bias, it did simplify the brake line routing a bit, i.e. keeping all four ports hooked up.

[marka]

Howdy,

Instead of blocking the ports, how about running two separate lines and prop valves to the rear? We did that on an ITB Rabbit and while it doesn't really offer any performance advantage of adjusting right/left rear bias, it did simplify the brake line routing a bit, i.e. keeping all four ports hooked up.

I thought about it and if I can't find the proper fittings to block the ports I might do it, but its another prop valve to buy and another thing that can get imbalanced between the two sides of the car. Blocking the ports and using T's just seems to be a cleaner overall approach.

Mark