Bought a 88 CRX SI ITA car
- Thread starter Davegt74
- Start date
Updates
I had to add padding, the red is what I put in
it was a pain since some of it did not match the tube diameter
had to install this also
still need to do the window net the one that's on the car does not have an SFI label
and also the batt cover
when did the start to require a SFI certified window net?
David
I had to add padding, the red is what I put in
it was a pain since some of it did not match the tube diameter
had to install this also
still need to do the window net the one that's on the car does not have an SFI label
and also the batt cover
when did the start to require a SFI certified window net?
David
A couple of things to get started.
1) It looks like the car has been around a while. Something that CRX's develop problems in is cracks in body suspension mounting areas. Carefully look at the rear bulkhead where the lower a arm mounts, that bulkhead will crack and actually tear off of the car. Also look for cracks in the steering rack mount and in in the front wheel well area. i don't want to freak you out, just keep an eye on these areas so you don't get unhappy surprises.
2) I think either the 14 x 7 or the 15 x 7 will be good. the 225 50 14' will fit with massaging in the rear. But just don't assume they will fit. Hopefully that work has been already done. Something you do not want to have happen is not clearence the rear as the tire will hook up into the rear wheel arch and its like hitting the brake at apex - instant oversteer.
3) Talk to tom fowler on hub life. They do break. If you were using stock hubs, I think change every 8 races? One thing to note, If you are racing, and all the sudden your peddle goes low, but you have brakes, be very cautious, and if in practice come into pits and check to see if you have slop in front wheels. Its a classic sign of a hub failure. They give you that early warning, next stop in a couple of laps is the wheel breaking off the car.
Its a great car, youl enjoy it!
1) It looks like the car has been around a while. Something that CRX's develop problems in is cracks in body suspension mounting areas. Carefully look at the rear bulkhead where the lower a arm mounts, that bulkhead will crack and actually tear off of the car. Also look for cracks in the steering rack mount and in in the front wheel well area. i don't want to freak you out, just keep an eye on these areas so you don't get unhappy surprises.
2) I think either the 14 x 7 or the 15 x 7 will be good. the 225 50 14' will fit with massaging in the rear. But just don't assume they will fit. Hopefully that work has been already done. Something you do not want to have happen is not clearence the rear as the tire will hook up into the rear wheel arch and its like hitting the brake at apex - instant oversteer.
3) Talk to tom fowler on hub life. They do break. If you were using stock hubs, I think change every 8 races? One thing to note, If you are racing, and all the sudden your peddle goes low, but you have brakes, be very cautious, and if in practice come into pits and check to see if you have slop in front wheels. Its a classic sign of a hub failure. They give you that early warning, next stop in a couple of laps is the wheel breaking off the car.
Its a great car, youl enjoy it!
sorry to say the CRX was hit buy a BMW during my drivers school
tore up the side caved in the b piller and lower rocker
I spun in front of the BMW and he hit me
if anyone needs any parts let me know
it supposed to have a lot of good stuff but I wouldn't know good Honda part if you hit me in the head with them
sure was a fast car
David
tore up the side caved in the b piller and lower rocker
I spun in front of the BMW and he hit me
if anyone needs any parts let me know
it supposed to have a lot of good stuff but I wouldn't know good Honda part if you hit me in the head with them
sure was a fast car
David
Around Denver
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1676032033.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1675289946.html
Maybe you can ask this guy for the shell:
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1667695234.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1676032033.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1675289946.html
Maybe you can ask this guy for the shell:
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1667695234.html
Easy Button: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1650664879.html
Christian, who's a little familiar with the car above...
Christian, who's a little familiar with the car above...
some pics
in the rear there was a small tear like if a bolt had been tore out but it was a sign of things to come
I tore it the rest of the way
the Body shop said the car had been through the ringer and I could spend 3K fixing it
it had 1/4 inch of bondo where the BBS is at
I could smoke the tires in 2nd gear on pit out, this car has some pwr
I might even take it to the chassie dyno
in the rear there was a small tear like if a bolt had been tore out but it was a sign of things to come
I tore it the rest of the way
the Body shop said the car had been through the ringer and I could spend 3K fixing it
it had 1/4 inch of bondo where the BBS is at
I could smoke the tires in 2nd gear on pit out, this car has some pwr
I might even take it to the chassie dyno
Last edited:
Steven McWilliams Jr
New member
Wow, that's too bad. The car was, and still is beautiful. You can surely pull the dent out. I saw a Mini and a F350 Super Duty tugging on a Miata at VIR last year. the tag team straightened out the frame pretty well. you should definately give it a try. If the frame is still somewhat bent, you can always just try to balance the car with corner weights.
Good Luck,
Steven
Good Luck,
Steven
boywonder
New member
I can vouch for the CRX being able to take a licking and keep on ticking; I drove mine head first into a wall at Mid-Ohio last year and an afternoon of careful hammering with a BFH and yanking on it with it strapped to my F350 in the paddock and I was able to race the next day. I've seen worse than yours repaired before so don't throw in the towel yet.
The important question...were you able to finish the drivers school and get your novice permit?
Good luck!
The important question...were you able to finish the drivers school and get your novice permit?
Good luck!
yes I received my novice permit, reading between the lines I figured if I spun one more time I would have been out.
got the door off
Dave
Last edited:
Steven McWilliams Jr
New member
At least you finished the school. Now you have time to get your car all straightened out before your Novice Permit expires (a whole two years) You'll get it back out there in no time. I saw a VW T-Bone a CRX at
100+mph. It moved the CRX's roll cage back about an inch!! I think he just replaced the subframe and was good to go, so you'll have no probem with this.
Good Luck and have fun!
Steven
100+mph. It moved the CRX's roll cage back about an inch!! I think he just replaced the subframe and was good to go, so you'll have no probem with this.
Good Luck and have fun!
Steven
almracing
New member
Dave...
First - sorry to see that, especially during your first event.
Second - that can be fixed! A good body shop can pull that out and get the door to shut. Trust me... I know. DOH!
The CRX is a tough car and as long as the four corners are straight and true, you will still be able to run well.
That split between the rear wheels is what someone mentioned in an earlier post... it is a weak spot on the car. You can have it welded up and then add a bar across the rear suspension points (you can find them online). But remember, you can't use a sta-bar in the rear and front... only one or the other.
Don't let the wreck discourage you. Unfortunately, it is part of the sport. You just got it done earlier than you would have hoped to.
First - sorry to see that, especially during your first event.
Second - that can be fixed! A good body shop can pull that out and get the door to shut. Trust me... I know. DOH!
The CRX is a tough car and as long as the four corners are straight and true, you will still be able to run well.
That split between the rear wheels is what someone mentioned in an earlier post... it is a weak spot on the car. You can have it welded up and then add a bar across the rear suspension points (you can find them online). But remember, you can't use a sta-bar in the rear and front... only one or the other.
Don't let the wreck discourage you. Unfortunately, it is part of the sport. You just got it done earlier than you would have hoped to.