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Thread: Bought a 88 CRX SI ITA car

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI,usa
    Posts
    149

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    DAVE
    I ran CRX in ITA for a number of years. I have converted my cars to FP. I would happy to tell you some of the mistakes and good ideas we developed over the year.
    I also have two sets of 14X7 Panasports Rallye wheels that I would be happy to sell. I use 13X7 in FP.
    My best finish with the cars was a 2nd place at the June Sprints, running the car only slightly changed from ITA specs. I even ran the Hoosier DOTs.
    My e-mail is [email protected].
    Good Luck
    Tony Machi
    Remember it's them or USGUYS

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    71

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    thanks Tony I will e-mail you next week.

    the car did not do to well with the tech inspection so I have to fix some stuff before Friday

    of course I am trying to figure out how it got through tech last year

    I've been busting butt since I got back from the inspection

    David

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    71

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    Updates

    I had to add padding, the red is what I put in

    it was a pain since some of it did not match the tube diameter



    had to install this also



    still need to do the window net the one that's on the car does not have an SFI label

    and also the batt cover

    when did the start to require a SFI certified window net?

    David

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    774

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    why do you need a battery cover? I thought stock was okay
    Track Speed Motorsports
    http://www.trackspeedmotorsports.com/

    Steven Ulbrik (engineer/crew/driver)
    [email protected]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    734

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    Stock is just fine.
    Christian in FL | Something white with Honda on the valve cover...
    FASTtech Limited- DL1, Schroth, & Recaro Goodness
    LTB Motorsports- The Cheapest Place for Momo
    TrackSpeed Motorsports- OMP, Racetech, & Driver Gear

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    LaCrosse Wis
    Posts
    302

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    A couple of things to get started.

    1) It looks like the car has been around a while. Something that CRX's develop problems in is cracks in body suspension mounting areas. Carefully look at the rear bulkhead where the lower a arm mounts, that bulkhead will crack and actually tear off of the car. Also look for cracks in the steering rack mount and in in the front wheel well area. i don't want to freak you out, just keep an eye on these areas so you don't get unhappy surprises.

    2) I think either the 14 x 7 or the 15 x 7 will be good. the 225 50 14' will fit with massaging in the rear. But just don't assume they will fit. Hopefully that work has been already done. Something you do not want to have happen is not clearence the rear as the tire will hook up into the rear wheel arch and its like hitting the brake at apex - instant oversteer.

    3) Talk to tom fowler on hub life. They do break. If you were using stock hubs, I think change every 8 races? One thing to note, If you are racing, and all the sudden your peddle goes low, but you have brakes, be very cautious, and if in practice come into pits and check to see if you have slop in front wheels. Its a classic sign of a hub failure. They give you that early warning, next stop in a couple of laps is the wheel breaking off the car.

    Its a great car, youl enjoy it!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    71

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    thanks Bob for the info,

    i think i will buy some hubs and start out fresh

    Davegt27

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Lagrangeville, NY
    Posts
    694

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    734

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    Easy Button: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1650664879.html

    Christian, who's a little familiar with the car above...
    Christian in FL | Something white with Honda on the valve cover...
    FASTtech Limited- DL1, Schroth, & Recaro Goodness
    LTB Motorsports- The Cheapest Place for Momo
    TrackSpeed Motorsports- OMP, Racetech, & Driver Gear

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Aurora, CO
    Posts
    71

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    some pics



    in the rear there was a small tear like if a bolt had been tore out but it was a sign of things to come
    I tore it the rest of the way



    the Body shop said the car had been through the ringer and I could spend 3K fixing it
    it had 1/4 inch of bondo where the BBS is at

    I could smoke the tires in 2nd gear on pit out, this car has some pwr
    I might even take it to the chassie dyno
    Last edited by Davegt74; 04-06-2010 at 04:37 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

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    That is only a door, a good professional tug and some Bondo.

    Have them do the pull (for cash) and get a new door. Bolt on the door. Leave the rear qtr alone for the time being.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Iowa State University
    Posts
    78

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    Wow, that's too bad. The car was, and still is beautiful. You can surely pull the dent out. I saw a Mini and a F350 Super Duty tugging on a Miata at VIR last year. the tag team straightened out the frame pretty well. you should definately give it a try. If the frame is still somewhat bent, you can always just try to balance the car with corner weights.

    Good Luck,
    Steven

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    734

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    Yeah, that's repairable. Might want/need a new lower subframe welded into the rear but definitely not the end of the world. For the $$ though, you may be better off buying the roller I linked to earlier.
    Christian in FL | Something white with Honda on the valve cover...
    FASTtech Limited- DL1, Schroth, & Recaro Goodness
    LTB Motorsports- The Cheapest Place for Momo
    TrackSpeed Motorsports- OMP, Racetech, & Driver Gear

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