Another option might be something like this.........
http://www.trailertoad.com/index.html
I'm sure there are cheaper versions out there. Or might be easy to make a "home-made" one to use.
Another option might be something like this.........
http://www.trailertoad.com/index.html
I'm sure there are cheaper versions out there. Or might be easy to make a "home-made" one to use.
Mark
Montero Racing (CFR)
Plymouth Neon ITA (For Sale)
Dodge Daytona ITB (sold)
Wow, $3200 and it doesn't include the 'required" stabilizer bars!! Holy $hit!
It might be a cool solution, and basically, it's just the third axle Ron was thinking of, but in a swiveling position. Weld a front hitch and add a ball to the back. Seems simple.
I wonder how it is backing with the thing!?
Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
GMC Sierra Tow Vehicle
New England Region
lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com
Same idea as "con-gear" or "converter gear" articulating 5th-wheel semi-trailers. It's used for overside/overweight/extended loads (e.g., lumber, houses, heavy road equipment hauling) so that the truck itself does not carry a significant tongue weight.
Looks like the "Trailer Toad" has a couple of pivot pins you insert when straight-ahead to keep it from pivoting in reverse (20 degrees either way, normally.)
Pretty clever. Pricey, but clever. And a lot more flexible than a 5th-wheel hitch...
I wonder if you removed the ramps, how far back you could load the car? Otherwise, perhaps moving the axles forward a bit but that is some fab work and it may be easier to move the tire rack to the rear of the trailer.
Just lengthen the ramp straps so they secure at less then a 90. This gives room to move the car back and will decrease wind resistance from the ramps. You can put ramps down and experiment to see how far back you need to move the car to get the proper weight. Pepe.
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