Dedicated race vs street wheels

OK, I need me some wheel learnin'....

I currently have two sets of steel rims that have been beat to heck and back and one set of no-name aluminum rims. At the end of last season I began thinking about picking up a set (6 rims, actually) of Panasports because, well, I dunno I guess just because I heard they were the bee's knees. However, now we are expecting our first wee one and so I need to be extra sure that I am spending every race dollar responsibly.

So my questions are:
1) Are aftermarket "street" rims acceptable for IT racing, or should I only shop for dedicated race rims that have been designed with the purpose of being stressed on the track?
2) What are the differences between street and race rims?
3) Out of pure curiosity, why does Panasport have the following disclaimer for their race rims "Panasport Racing Wheels are for RACING PURPOSES ONLY, not for street or highway use." I would think that if they're good enough for the track they would be fine for public roads, or are there certain tests that street legal rims have to pass that race rims are not subject to?
4) Should I even bother trading out my current rims? The only real reason I'm concerned with them is that they are an unknown, I don't know how long they've been in service and such.
5) Lastly, where can I find hub rings (or whatever they're called), my aluminum rims are not hub centric and I know there are little ring adapters you can get, I just haven't found a place that carries them.

Thanks for your knowledge!

boywonder said:

OK, I need me some wheel learnin'...

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>>> ...Panasports because, well, I dunno I guess just because I heard they were the bee's knees.

They were...in the 60's, 70's, and 80's. These days there are numerous competitors in that market, providing better parts at cheaper prices.

>>> 1) Are aftermarket "street" rims acceptable for IT racing...

Yes. In fact, these days that distinction is long gone.

>>> 2) What are the differences between street and race rims?

Nothing, functionally/technically.

>>> ...why does Panasport have the following disclaimer...

Because they're a company and they don't want to get sued.

>>> 4) Should I even bother trading out my current rims?

Depends: got the money? Need to add lightness? 13x6 lightweight alloy wheels can be a competitive advantage. Just make a point of checking your regularly for damage.

>>> 5) Lastly, where can I find hub rings (or whatever they're called)...

"Hubcentric rings". Tons available on the web, do a Google and eBay search. You'll need to know your hub size and the bore size of the hole in your wheels.

GA

>>> What are the differences between street and race rims?

DOT approval. Street rims must meet specifications established by the DOT and withstand potholes, etc. which require them to use minimum thickness material, etc. Racing rims may not meet DOT specifications as thinner material can be used to provide for a lighter wheel.

>>> Why does Panasport have the following disclaimer...

Because their wheels are not DOT approved. Do they not meet DOT specs or are they just not DOT certiifed? I don't know.


You will find racing rims are lighter than street rims. Weigh one of your no name aluminum rims and then look around at what a comparable aluminum racing rim in that size weighs.

Ryan--Panasports are great for your application. Look around, though, as you have many other (less expensive) choices.

If you remember NASA's montra Faster/Better/Cheaper? Then several missions failed and it became Faster/Better/Cheaper pick two? Likewise in racing wheels it's weight/strength/cost pick two. How's the weight of Panasports compare to Kosi K1's, how about cost? Just remember that racing wheels are disposable eventually no matter how stout they will be aluminum scrap so inspect them often.

As for me I'm going to pick up a set of K1's.

Take a look at the Enkie (not sure if I spelled that right) wheel. For our size, 15x7, they are the lightest and one of the least expensive out there. Philstireservice.com carries them.

JLawton said:

Take a look at the Enkie (not sure if I spelled that right) wheel. For our size, 15x7, they are the lightest and one of the least expensive out there. Philstireservice.com carries them.

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Check Ryan's signature, he runs in ITC. Which = 6" wheels.

Haven't check the availability of 13x6.

Hey Ryan, please do all the research and let me know what I should do. I could use one more set of wheels but never quite get around to it.

I am pretty sure I weighed all of my wheels and they are all right at #12.5. Panasport non-ultralights (ProRally), Circle steels and the antique white ATI.

Bassett makes steel wheels that seem just like the chrome Circle wheels I have and they are #13. I'm pretty sure you can get custom offsets for little or no charge.

http://www.bassettwheel.com/legends_mini.html

VTO makes a minilight style but Jayson said he had some and they cracked.

http://www.vtoperformance.com/acatalog/Superlites_by_Vehicle.html

If you can find 'em, Volks are ideal. 8 pounds for a 13x6! Not baby friendly prices, however--$300+ per corner, if available. . .

Watch the Prod site. I know Frenchy found a set of 13x6's there. Will the bbs' in the classifieds work on the Honders?

Thanks!

Thanks for everyone's input. I was hesitant to start the thread for fear that it would show just how ignorant I am...but then I realized I already unveiled my true colors long ago.

Granted, my car isn't a beast in weight or hp, but I didn't know if there was some unspoken rule that you only use race rims because street wheels are unsafe in competition and are likely to spontaneously combust and kill everyone at the track. Now knowing that it's like everything else in racing, you're paying more for weight reduction, and it's not a safety thing, I can shop and rest easy - though not too easy as it's rather difficult to find 13" wheels. These days more car run 13" rotors than rims...

The Kosei K1's (or Buddy Club P1) that James mentioned are sweet looking but not made in my size that I can find.

Enkei made some Honda wheels back in the day that were 13" but only 4.5" wide.

Volks are sweet but way out of my price range, at this point in my career that money would be much better spent on seat time.

VTO has a rim that would work with spacers for $160 per corner, and the Bassett's are tempting as well at $65 for a 13lb wheel

I also found the American Racing Estrella(and seemingly identical Primax 333), which are both very similar to my unknown maker aluminum wheels, for $55 at 12.6lb per wheel.

I think the American Racing Estrella's come in 13x5.5?

ROTA makes a ton of wheels I believe in your needed size.

Jay: yes, the American Racing Estella and the Primax 333 both come in 13x5.5

Tristan: Rota does make the Torque in a 13" rim, but only in 5" or 6.5" widths.

Ryan,
What size tires do you use?

Dave: 215/50R13

That's the Kumho 710 size. But when he switches to purple crack he'll be running 225x45R13.

The purple crack isn't in the cards for this season, I need to get better at not flat spotting brand new tires and not driving into walls before I go down that road.

jumbojimbo said:

VTO makes a minilight style but Jayson said he had some and they cracked.

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Only because of bad advice and not running hubcentric rings. They may be O.K.

If money is an issue, run what ya got. Your better off spending money on seat time. When you get to the point where you want (and can afford) to run at the pointy end you'll want to get rid of the rotating mass. Until then, don't sweat it.