SU Float Setting Questions- Need yous help again z gurus

[Ron Earp]

Ron, was it the float height that was causing you to have one carb's egts going cold Ron?? I have the bowl sight tool on order from z-therapy, which should give us a little more accurate look at the float settings. Actually what you've said is a help. I've been trying to religiously follow factory settings, but it's helpful to know we might have to drift a bit from stock specs to find what's going to work for racing. Moreover I just never realized that the amount of oil added to the dampeners was all that important. BTW have you run your car with the new motor in it yet?

With respect to one of the problems I fought for a few races I had a carb that was a bit off on the float setting and the fuel level was too high. I have sight glasses but the carb that had the setting off had a poor glass that didn't allow you to see the level. After resetting the floats many times I finally got my hands on proper glass and fixed the problem. I then further fixed the problem to make it easy to set the floats by using a "go no go" wire gauge inbetween the float tab and a fixture cast in the bowl so I don't have to worry about it - I set it with the wire gauge and I know it is good. I arrived at the proper setting by using the carb that was working well as a master.

Damper oil - Steve P and I have compared notes here and both of us agree that no damper oil doesn't work well. It worked well on Sam's dyno, but on track having no damper oil seemed to allow the pistons to slam open quickly and we both experienced throttle transition stutters. Bear in mind Steve has a 240, I have a 260, but we both had the same experience.

Too much oil, like filling the tube 2/3 full or higher, seems to cause a bit of a sluggish response. I know that description is hard to quantify but that is about the best I can do.

Mine seems to like about 2ccs (2 mL), and I use 20 weight motorcycle fork oil (I don't think this makes such a bid difference, you just don't want a multiviscosity oil in there). Why 20W motorcycle fork oil? It was what I had on the shelf that was single weight. I'm sure you could get similar results with 30W motor oil.

We have run the new motor on the track but not the dyno. On track I think I think what we have is a bit more hp throughout the range than the old motor. Beyond that they seem somewhat similar. I'm looking forward to putting it on the dyno and actually getting out and doing some racing with it!