87 No Start

[NCRX7RACER]

Are all of your grounds hooked up? Rear of engine to firewall? Under the emission / vacuum lines beside the oil filler tube?

[ITS57]

I do not have a Ground wire in that area. I have a multiable ground from the wire harness to the intake support. Thanks Ron

[NCRX7RACER]

Did you unhook your fuel lines where they enter the metal lines on top of the block? (from the firewall to the block) Check to see if they got reversed. I know you think the problem is electrical, but it is worth checking this too.

[ITS57]

Yes I Checked that,and the line from the fuel filter goes to the primary injectors. This engine hasn't been started in about 7 years I've done the 2 stroke oil in the rotors. I've read that pulling to start is a option also. Thanks for your help. Ron

[Eagle7]

...it will not start unless I squirt fuel in the intake and fires right off for about 10 seconds.
... This was a perfectly good running street car untill I got ahold of it.

This engine hasn't been started in about 7 years I've done the 2 stroke oil in the rotors. I've read that pulling to start is a option also.

Is this the same car? If it runs fine when you squirt fuel in the intake, pulling it isn't likely to help. You need to find out why you're not getting fuel.

Do you have 12V on one pin of an injector plug? You should be able to reach a secondary plug without disassembling much. If no 12V, that's your problem. If 12V, then it may be an ECU or sensor issue.

Does the fuel pump run if you push the flapper on the AFM open? If not that's your problem. You should be able to force the fuel pump to run by jumpering a two conductor plug near the passenger fenderwell.

[seckerich]

Keep it simple. You already know you have ignition. Fuel pressure is good so find out why your injectors are not firing.

1. Injectors that sit for a long period will stick shut. Pull out the primary injectors and put 12 volt to them. Polarity does not matter, it is just a coil. Can you blow through it with power applied? Shoot carb cleaner through it.

2. Do you now have voltage to the injectors at the plug? Do not expect a full 12 volt. Hook an ohm meter to the other wire and see if it cycles to ground when you spin the CAS. This will tell you if the computer is doing its job. Now you can be certain where the problem is. Common power wire in injector plug is black/yellow stripe, and signal wires (ground switching) are light green with stripes in the color for that location. You are getting close, don't give up.:026:

[Eagle7]

2. Do you now have voltage to the injectors at the plug? Do not expect a full 12 volt. Hook an ohm meter to the other wire and see if it cycles to ground when you spin the CAS. This will tell you if the computer is doing its job. Now you can be certain where the problem is. Common power wire in injector plug is black/yellow stripe, and signal wires (ground switching) are light green with stripes in the color for that location.

Clarification - this ohmeter test needs to be one of the primary injector plugs. The secondaries aren't used until after 3800 RPM.

[ITS57]

Yes it's the same car. Steve and Marty you both have givin me lots of great info!!! I will be working on the car tonight using all your great suggestions! I'm not going to let this thing whip me! Thanks, Ron