240z Brake Pad Question

Tom Donnelly

New member
Well, I'm just about out of my sets of Hawk HT 9 riveted pads for my 240z. I've heard Hawk doesn't make the HT 9's anymore. What pads are y'all running now?

Tom
 
Carbotechs. Most of the Z guys I know are using those, at least those racing around the VIR/CMP/RRR area. 10s seem to work well, I have used 12s and like those, and Parrish was going to try a set of 8s and let me know how those go.

12 > 10 > 8 with respect to brake torque. No ill effects on rotors with the 12s, even at CMP. I'm sure there are other pads that will work well too. I've been using Carbotechs for about four years and enjoy their service as well as the product.
 
HT10s are going away from what I understand. Replaced by DTC60/70. Porterfield can make pretty much any pad shape out of any pad material they sell. I've run the DTC70s on my 350Z and they are wonderful. I like them better the PFC 01s.
 
I'm using (or I will be if I ever get the car back on track) Hawk Blues. I tried some compound Porterfield but didn't see much difference WRT the blues. The tracks around here aren't particularly hard on brakes.

The roters don't last long usiing blues.
 
Tom, I am running the 10's. Seem to work well for me. If they go away I will try Blues and/or carbotech.

Wish you could make it to NSS but I understand the $$$. It is a fun track, keeps you busy. I hope Randy Shedd makes it so I can at least have someone to try and run with (if he doesn't run and hide from me :) )
 
I've been running the Blues for a long time. Tried Carbotech 10s this weekend on the front (have been running Carbotech rears)because I was having wear issues with the Hawks, but they only lasted 2 qualifying sessions and a 30 minute race. I used to get 2 full weekends on Blues and changed rotors every other set. This season, I only get one weekend now and it's chewing up the rotors. I haven't changed anything on the car, but this is getting ridiculous (and expensive). I'm running full bias to the rear.
I must be doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
How much cooling have you got running to the rotors?

Check the piston seal on the calipers. I actually cooked the seal and it was causing a pad to drag.

Just thinking out loud.....
 
I must be doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks


Maybe you're going faster. :)

Old tires could do that too. Can't stop as well with less sticky tires. If everything else is working and you have sufficient cooling, (you said nothing changed).

Tom
 
Tom, I am running the 10's. Seem to work well for me. If they go away I will try Blues and/or carbotech.

I was leaning towards ht-10's cause I used to get the ht-9's riveted instead of bonded. The bonded would tear up quicker. Back in the day. Are you getting the Hawks through Carbotech? And are they the black or blue compound? The ht-9's were black.

Road Atlanta is hard on brakes, more so than Roebling. I guess its the downhill on the back straight.

I have to stay local this year, spent too much money just getting the car and trailer working! I might actually have to buy tires this year. I've been running on 6 year old Hoosiers that were in my parent's basement. Wrapped in trashbags for 6 years. They've held up pretty well so far. The Appalacian tire fella said all the Z's are running 15's this year too. 2 sets of 15 inch panasports. There's some more money there too. I think that will wait till next year.

Tom
 
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I have 1 -3" hose running to the front of each caliper from an opening in the airdam under the bumper . It's attached directly using a modified dustshield.The seals on the caliper are cooked after only a couple of events, so maybe that's the problem. I'd like to get another hose in there but i can't see how with the space constraints.

Thanks
 
I made some epoxy fiberglass composite ducts that allow a 3" hose to blow through the caliper. These drop the caliper temp about 200 degrees at Road Atlanta with a very fast driver, not me! I am working on a duct to split a 3" hose to blow on both sides of the rotor, but other things have kept me from finishing it.

Mike
 
air.....flow....

Man,
You gotta get more air to your brakes.... At least 2 ducts, 3 needed to keep things cooler at Road Atlanta......hat on caliper, and 2 to the rotor...... Its not pleasant at pit out on the 10th lap hitting the floor...... Can ya say dirt tracking brakes!!!!!

I gotta get on the track!!!! Any Track!!!:eclipsee_steering:

David
 
Ok, here are the pictures of other racers solutions to Z brake ducting.
 

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i really appreciate the help guys. Where does the second inlet come in from the front of the car. I have 1 on each side of the airdam. Do you cut 2 more holes in the airdam?
 
Dave,

I have a single duct in the face of the air dam per the GCR. It splits into the 2 lines that are then routed to the brakes.
Here is a link to my set up as I found it from the PO.
http://picasaweb.google.com/ITSa240/Zbrakes#

I have replaced the dryer duct and changed a few other minor things but you will get the general idea. My set up makes it interesting when changing rotors. I hope to alter that later this year.
 
Thanks Paul. I was wondering about adding holes because of the rules. Do the 3 lines that Katman used all come from a single inlet?
I see I've got some work to do this weekend
 
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