Sentra SE-R

How much fuel does it take to fill up from that point of starvation? Reason I ask, I never had a problem with the NX2000. However, I didn't use the factory gauge, I had a Stack system installed. The way I calibrated the gauge was to turn on the pump and empty the tank until it started to spit, then called that "zero". From there I'd add a gallon at a time to calibrate it to full (which came to about 10.5 gallons).

So, you can probably do the same thing: pump out fuel until it starts to spit, then note that on the gauge and call it "zero". - GA

Heehee. That would be assuming I have ever even messed with the tank and pump. I've never even taken the access cover off. :happy204:
I'm within 20 lbs of minimum weight with a 1/4 tank of gas (before it starves) so I've never considered messing with it.
 
Okay! All of the comments have been really helpful. We're actually starting the tear down process THIS weekend. After that's done with, we start on the cage.
-Do any of you B13 guys have any picture of the cage in your cars so we can get some ideas?

-For suspension, I was thinking of going with ksport coilover-type shocks with 448# front/ 336# rear. Do those sound like pretty good rates for a starting point?

A lot of other stuff will fall into place later, but we basically are trying to get this all in to make it legal so I can get my license this season. As always, comments/ideas are much appreciated!

-Thanks

Very basic design I started with:
Cageleft1.jpg



Sorry, I don't know anything about KSports. I'm running cheap Koni inserts and cheap Road Magnets.
 
For what it is worth, I have heard nothing but bad stuff about the Ksports/D2 coil overs. They run super high rebound rates and and compresssion rates feel like water. Also the older models tend to blow and gettign them fixed under there warantee was easier said than done, but this is all hearsay. I looked into them as an option for the MK1 MR2 chasis. Since I can't seem to find an off the shelf racing only shock for the car.
 
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I had the anual tech done for my car and I was told I need a fuel test port.... Well not sure where to put it or what it would look like. If anyone has a pic of where they put it on the se-r please post.
 
Paul Morrison sold them, but the www.fuelports.com site is down. But this one works: http://www.angelfire.com/oh5/sccafuelports/page2.html
I believe I paid less than $30. Plumb it in-line in the engine bay just after/above the fuel filter. Easy install and access point. Safety wire it up real nice so the hoses do not pull off.
Looks like this: http://www.angelfire.com/oh5/sccafuelports/page2.html

thanks!
$30... I'll be able to pass this by my accountant (aka wife) with no problem.:happy204:
 
Greg:
Have you had a chance to compare your suspension setup against the Progress? If so How do they stand to yours and which setup would you consider "The Best Bang for the Buck"

Thanks,
 
Have you had a chance to compare your suspension setup against the Progress?
Negative, no experience with the Progress system. Actually, I'm aware of them, but have no knowledge of their design.

Here's the key, though: for many years, I'd been harping on the need for more spring for these cars. Many, many people told me in the early days that 400-450# springs were more than enough. Through experimentation and engineering, we found that due to the limitations of the suspension design (read: struts with bad geometry) that the more spring we ran, the better (following the Colin Chapman axiom of "a suspension works best when you don't let it"). The sole limitation to performance in this car, then, became the shocks' ability to control the springs (assuming, of course, you've got the cage to stiffen the chassis). Eventually others have come around to where even the original doubters now agree the more spring, the better (though the Koni guys still think I'm bonkers...;) ).

I've run Koni Red inserts, KYB AGX struts, Advanced Design struts, then Koni 8611 inserts in custom struts. Then I even had those 8611s revalved for more. The better the shocks got, the more spring I could run, and the faster the car went. Had I a larger budget, I'd be buying those $1500 per corner Koni 2817s...

Bottom line: whoever you call, ask them if they "guarantee" that their dampers can support at least 1000+ in-lb springs, and if they do, how long they'll last. If they say "go" then fine. If they express doubts or horror or try to tell you that you won't need that, then walk away.

GA
 
UPDATE: The car is empty! What I mean by this is we have started on the cage! I took the seats, carpet, spare tire, seatbelts, and headliner out of the car this weekend. We've already taken measurements and designed the cage as well. We're just ordering the tubing today and then when I get my 5 days off work starting thursday, the fabrication begins.

We did run into an interesting situation with the forward-most cage supports, though. The situation is this: in order to put the bars where we want and vertical, it looks like we would need to go through the dash. This means that dash modification/removal is in the cards. The problem is that I can't find anything about the dash in the GCR. Will we need to just remove the dash, fit it around the tubes, then replace it? Or do we need to bend the tubes around the dash? I know it is most likely in the GCR somewhere, but I can't for the life of me find it.

I've left messages with both the Nebraska SCCA director and the office in Topeka, so I'm hoping to hear back from them, but you guys rock and I thought you might be able to help either quicker or have more specific information about this problem.

Greg- We used the pictures of the welded-in cage you guys did for a lot of reference, but we just weren't sure about this dash thing. What I'm trying to say is thank you for all the awesome help. Racecar blogs rule!
 
We did run into an interesting situation with the forward-most cage supports, though. The situation is this: in order to put the bars where we want and vertical, it looks like we would need to go through the dash. This means that dash modification/removal is in the cards. The problem is that I can't find anything about the dash in the GCR. Will we need to just remove the dash, fit it around the tubes, then replace it? Or do we need to bend the tubes around the dash? I know it is most likely in the GCR somewhere, but I can't for the life of me find it.

It is legal to go thru the dash. Just do what you need to to be able to reinstall the dash around the tubing. It is common practice, nothing to worry about.
 
The progress group set up seems to be a good for the money entry level coil over I have no complaints over my setup since progress group can built a set to whatever the specification you need, since I’m racing a 2250 pounds b13 the spring weigh on front is 375 and 250 rear anything heavier than that will send the sentra flying all over the place I remember when I first ordered mine the costumer service guy who actually help mike on the design of the coilover told me to use a weight of 450 at front and 350 rear but it was too much when I first tested the springs on the race track the car was just too tight and never came to have a good grip so I ordered some springs from eibach at 375 F and 250 R and problem solved ,I know there are many konis with adjustability than can give a lot better performance than what I have but for 1000 bucks for more than an average coilover I think its fair what progress offer to costumers.
 
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Brett -

Great to hear about progress being made and another ITA racer joining us in MiDiv. Do you think you'll be able to make the double school at MAM April 17th-18th?
 
Brett, it's my pleasure. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me and I'll send you my email address for more info. - GA
 
Steve did you use the 5/16 (8mm) serrated t connector?

Ozzie, I BELIEVE I used the 5/16 - I think that's the stock fuel line size. I don't have any of the documentation for it at hand.

Brett, great to hear you are making progress. Keep everyone up to date, post some pics too!
 
UPDATE: I haven't worked since Wednesday. In a perfect world, there would now be the better part of a roll cage in the sentra. Unfortunately, the people who were supposed to have the DOM tubing seemingly forgot to call us back, meaning that we don't have anything to build it with. On the plus side, I have spent the last three days replacing all of the bushings on the car. I hear that some people do this with not much more than hammer and I find that quite impressive. I had a pretty rough time at my dad's shop with a torch and a press and impact wrenches. Have any of you guys swapped your bushings out with hammers? Some of those things were ridiculous.

Anyway... We're still waiting on the tube, but I have lots of other stuff to work on like tearing down the rear calipers and removing the sticky e-brake cables, not to mention removing the cat. and bending the exhaust out in front of the wheel. :D There's a swap meet tomorrow morning I'm going to in hopes of finding a cheap seat or some other unexpected amazing deal. Wish me luck!
 
Original bushings = hammers, shims, anvils, torches, fire, fire, fire!! Yes, they are a pain.
Did you break the 12" long bolts on the rears?
 
Actually, even though those were a huge pain, I managed to ruin none of them. I came close on the driver's side, but I only ruined the last few threads trying to get it out. The passenger side went much smoother, as I had figured out that i could just remove the whole piece and then get the middle of the bushings off with giant pliers after it glows red.

I'm hoping to get suspension and brakes figured out today, especially since it's my last day off for a while. We'll just have to see if I can continue to accomplish the seemingly impossible task of getting this car ready for novice school on April 18th.... :o
 
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