Sentra SE-R

Brett -

I'll let you know what we end up doing, hopefully it works out. For brakes, what pads were you using? Hawk Blues are generaly a good place to start and go from there.
 
I was using some sort of OEM replacement pads. You're saying that good pads is the first step then? What about braided brake lines? Do those make a noticeable difference?

edit:Also, is it normally hard to find my car on the application chart for Hawk blues?
 
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Good pads and especially good racing brake fluid or at least fresh Ford High Temp. The brakelines are probably junk as well and braided will give you a harder pedal because your brake pressure will actually be going to stop the car and not first expanding old rubber lines

matt
 
Brett, for the AD18 brake, there are not a lot of pad options. I use the Carbotech XP10, available direct from Carbotech for about $155. Yes, change out the rubber lines to steel braid - should be less than $100. I also run brake ducts to the front calipers. And use the good brake fluid with regular flush and fills (I do it after every weekend). You can still brun the front brakes down easily - just need to learn to drive them smart and only pound on them when you really have to. If you stand on them every corner, yeah, they are going to go away.
 
you're not kidding Steve.....i spent maybe 30min looking for SE-R pads and came up with squat.

Hawk......nothing.
Cobalt.....nothing.
PFC........nothing.
Porterfield.......nothing.

is carbotech REALLY the only option? i used them once, and as a general rule amongst miata drivers is if you don't bed them in properly they will burn down in a weekend or two.
 
Porterfield makes (or made?) one. Didn't like them the one time I tried them a couple years ago.
And yes, bedding is certainly important.
 
Do the SE-R's use the same calipers as the NX2000? I actually use a caliper that's almost identical to the NX. And surprise, surprise, you can't find performance pads for a Saturn either.......... BUT it takes the same pad as a Eclipse and a couple of those types of cars. I have to do a little grinding on the outside of the backing plate but works well.
 
tnord said:
you're not kidding Steve.....i spent maybe 30min looking for SE-R pads and came up with squat.

Hawk......nothing.
Cobalt.....nothing.
PFC........nothing.
Porterfield.......nothing.

is carbotech REALLY the only option? i used them once, and as a general rule amongst miata drivers is if you don't bed them in properly they will burn down in a weekend or two.
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I've been running a couple of different compounds from Porterfield. Just call them up and they can give you some suggestions.
 
I'm using the raybestos st 43 pads.these are expensive. I like them better than the porterfield compounds.
best to call them for pricing.

#12 ita se-r
 
I think the last ones I got from them were around $180 for the front. They were the Raybestos. The Porterfields were the same price. I've tried the AP 511 R-4 and the R-4 E enduro pads as well. I hated the enduro pads. They wore very fast. The regular R-4 was better but the Raybestos pads I bought last time were much better than either of the Porterfields.
 
wondering if if anyone experiences fuel starvation when you get to about a 1/4 tank, especially when making right hand turns.
Without going to a fuel cell is there a fix for this??
 
c_ozzie said:
wondering if if anyone experiences fuel starvation when you get to about a 1/4 tank, especially when making right hand turns.
Without going to a fuel cell is there a fix for this??
Click to expand...

Yep. Always have.
My solution has been to make sure I don't go under 1/4 tank. :)
 
Racerlinn said:
Yep. Always have.
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How much fuel does it take to fill up from that point of starvation? Reason I ask, I never had a problem with the NX2000. However, I didn't use the factory gauge, I had a Stack system installed. The way I calibrated the gauge was to turn on the pump and empty the tank until it started to spit, then called that "zero". From there I'd add a gallon at a time to calibrate it to full (which came to about 10.5 gallons).

So, you can probably do the same thing: pump out fuel until it starts to spit, then note that on the gauge and call it "zero". - GA
 
c_ozzie said:
wondering if if anyone experiences fuel starvation when you get to about a 1/4 tank, especially when making right hand turns.
Without going to a fuel cell is there a fix for this??
Click to expand...

You might want to look at the return line that goes back into the fuel tank from the fuel rail. It should empty into the well in which the fuel pump sits but often the hose degrades or gets dislodged and the fuel goes to the main section of the tank instead.
 
Okay! All of the comments have been really helpful. We're actually starting the tear down process THIS weekend. After that's done with, we start on the cage.
-Do any of you B13 guys have any picture of the cage in your cars so we can get some ideas?

-For suspension, I was thinking of going with ksport coilover-type shocks with 448# front/ 336# rear. Do those sound like pretty good rates for a starting point?

A lot of other stuff will fall into place later, but we basically are trying to get this all in to make it legal so I can get my license this season. As always, comments/ideas are much appreciated!

-Thanks
 
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