Trailer Winch

tom_sprecher

tom_sprecher

Super Moderator
I am thinking about putting a winch in my trailer to help in loading my car. Unfortunately, due to my extreme patience, the understanding tone in my voice and overall easy going nature, my wife will no longer help guide me into the trailer or give me a moan-back. Plus, it is so tight that once in the trailer getting out of the car is quite a trick in contortionism.

A couple of my Formula buddies have winches in their trailers but their cars weight under 1000#. Does anyone have a recommendation of how to calculate the rating necessary to pull my 2300# RX-7 up the beavertail on my 24' enclosed?

TIA
 
I recently purchased this one from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=95912

connected to just a spare battery, (not one connected to a running vehicle) it pulled my 2000lb Rabbit up the trailer perfectly fine. Started to run out of steam even when the car was flat on the trailer but that was because the battery was dying, so assuming it was connected to a 14v charging source I think it would be even better.

Im not a big fan of HF stuff but for that price I thought it was worth a shot.
 
I got a Warn amd mounted it in my enclosed. I *think* it had 3500 pounds in the rating somewhere, but I could be wrong. I mounted a car sized 800 cold cranking amp Orbital deep cel batt in the trailer as well, and wired to that. It charges when it's hooked to the truck. It also operates my emergency disconnect braking system.

I've winched the car up often works like a charm. The most difficult thing is tending the cable to make sure it wraps right. IIRC, I got one that was "ATV" sized.
 
I also went the HF route, but went even cheaper = 43331-7VGA $39.00 No reverse (have to pull the cable out). But it has paid for itself and operated flawlessly, pulling my 2400lb Shelby up onto my trailer. In my case, the portability is a plus, but it can be mounted.
 
Thats very similar to my Warn. I noted teh speed chart, and it shows the spped vs weight deal. Mine slows down as well, but i'd say it takes about 1.5 minutes to roll it all the way. (More if i stop to readjust the steering)
 
I am using a Warn Works 1700 to load my 2100lb Volvo onto a tilt open trailer and have no problem with it other than it being slow. I don't think it would drag it onto the trailer crashed but otherwise OK..

Les Chaney
 
The winch I have mounts on two bolts only. It seems like that is not enough to me. The trailer has a receiver for it so I will get a piece of square tube and bolt the winch to it.



I am not sure what kind of battery I should be looking at. We have two deep cycles in our boat. Should I just get another one for the trailer? Something like this?
 
I vote for the $39-49 HF winch also. I've used one for several years and it works fine (with a well-charged battery). I've pulled a 2600 lb (empty) Nissan into my trailer with no problems. The only drawback is that it's a little slower than a fancy winch - maybe 2-3 minutes to pull in 20 feet, depending on the grade and battery charge.

Tom Lyttle
 
That 3000 winch with remote control is a smoking deal. I got the 3000 NON remote from HF and wish I had the remote - total pain in the ass without it. I might buy that and put my old one on the shelf as a spare. PS - paid 170 for it WITHOUT remote.

I pull a 2600 lb car no problem
 
That 3000 winch with remote control is a smoking deal. I got the 3000 NON remote from HF and wish I had the remote - total pain in the ass without it. I might buy that and put my old one on the shelf as a spare. PS - paid 170 for it WITHOUT remote.

I pull a 2600 lb car no problem
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Any thoughts on the HF winch (with an "I", Jim) for use on an open trailer? Because I have 5k pound axles the grade would be a bit steeper than an enclosed trailer. I'd gladly spend the $70 just to see, but if someone can share some experience that's even better.
 
Any thoughts on the HF winch (with an "I", Jim) for use on an open trailer? Because I have 5k pound axles the grade would be a bit steeper than an enclosed trailer. I'd gladly spend the $70 just to see, but if someone can share some experience that's even better.
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I use the $39 HF winch with an open trailer, but have like 5' ramps (aluminium, real light but sturdy 2000 lb cap).

Slow speed is an advantage in that I have time to make sure the car is lined up correctly. Cable is long enough, too!

I use s-hooks to secure the winch base to the trailer tongue, supported by a short 4x4 and powered by a spare battery (always nice to have a spare battery to jump the racecar, tow van, whatever). Put the whole setup (minus the battery) in a plastic milk box.

For the three or four times a year I use it, it is a price performer. But like all HF stuff, if my livelyhood depended on it, I would be buying much more quality.
 
A rule of thumb that I have used- standard fine print applies- the pulling force for a rolling load is around 40 pounds per 1000 pounds of weight. So for a 2000# car that rolls well, it would take about 80# of pulling force to pull it on level ground.
Based on that, any of the 1500-2500# winches for ATVs should have no problem. I have used a couple Superwinch ATV units on ATV type snowplows and they work very well.
 
Thanks for the rule of thumb. Now all I need is the money and time to buy and install the winch, supports, battery & box, cables, etc.

Am I having fun yet?
 
Just like you, I decided the winch was a good investment in a happy marriage. Much, much cheaper than the divorce that would have resulted from attempts to drive the car on the trailer! :)

Check the boating supply places. I bought a cheapo manual (no electric) winch rated at 4000 lbs. rolling to pull the Miata onto my open trailer for around $70 with a 35 foot cable. I can bring the car up on the trailer in about two minutes with no problems at all. It's bolted in place with two grade 8 bolts and gets stored inside during the winters, but otherwise has done well exposed to the elements over the last four years or so.
 
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