91 CRX Si ITA Build
- Thread starter raffaelli
- Start date
gran racing
Super Moderator
Instead of using a screw driver, get a cement chisel (I believe that's what it it 
) that's about 1.5" wide. Or use whatever you have in your garage that is similar. That will get 98% of it out.
See ya at Lime Rock in a couple of months.
) that's about 1.5" wide. Or use whatever you have in your garage that is similar. That will get 98% of it out. See ya at Lime Rock in a couple of months.
Instead of using a screw driver, get a cement chisel (I believe that's what it it
See ya at Lime Rock in a couple of months.
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Thanks!
I bought your book yesterday. Looking forward to reading it.
About the wiring...
All of the abandoned wiring...can I coil it up and stick it in the dashboard? (Maybe put it in the glove box
) Or does it need to be kept where the factory put it?
And the little plastic things that hold the wire in place...can I replace with a sheet metal screw through a zip tie?
All of the abandoned wiring...can I coil it up and stick it in the dashboard? (Maybe put it in the glove box
) Or does it need to be kept where the factory put it? And the little plastic things that hold the wire in place...can I replace with a sheet metal screw through a zip tie?
I picked up Impacts two layer suit. It if well in the shop, but when I got home, maybe I had too much pasta that day.....didn't fit well at all. I am going to return it.
Then I read Dave's book....He mentioned the costs of suits and they were half of what I paid. I was looking around the internet to see what he was talking about. Sure enough, I see the G Force suit is in the range Dave quoted.
Why the big price difference? Name?
What is the general opinion on G Force equipment?
Then I read Dave's book....He mentioned the costs of suits and they were half of what I paid. I was looking around the internet to see what he was talking about. Sure enough, I see the G Force suit is in the range Dave quoted.
Why the big price difference? Name?
What is the general opinion on G Force equipment?
lateapex911
Super Moderator
I look at G Force as good stuff, but it lacks some Pizazz...when compared to say, a Sparco. Side by side, the Sparco is probably cut better, and has nicer features, stiching and so on, but the G-Force gets the job done.
The other issue is material and protection, as certain suits are made from materials that are supposed to be resistant for longer. Kirk K seems to know a ton about this, he might have more to add.
The other issue is material and protection, as certain suits are made from materials that are supposed to be resistant for longer. Kirk K seems to know a ton about this, he might have more to add.
spnkzss
New member
I consider Gforce as getting the job done. Sparco, Simpson and such as luxury. I like the gforce stuff. especially some of their new suits. My original gforce suit is hot and heavy. I have been looking for a new suit, and am looking at the new gforce. I use gforce suit, gloves, shoes, belts, and net. I have for 5 years now.
I have this g force suit here and like it a lot. It seems light weight and it fits well. I have heard a lot of vendors say that it is comparable to much more expensive suits. the only downside is that it is offered in small, medium, large, extra large type sizes so if you dont fit into one of those sizes then you are kinda SOL. do make sure that the suit is a little bit on the larger size as apposed to the small size though.
My suit is a custom made 3-layer Simpson. My socks are also from Simpson.
My gloves are OMP.
My shoes and helmet are G Force.
I really, really like all of them. The Simpson and OPM stuff was relatively expensive but damn they're nice. The G Force stuff was relatively cheap, but they do a great job too. The newer G-Force stuff they kind of stepped up their "appearance" on. Their stuff just doesn't have the cheaper look and feel that it use to. At least not as much. So that's why I bought their shoes and helmet a year ago when I needed some new ones.
My gloves are OMP.
My shoes and helmet are G Force.
I really, really like all of them. The Simpson and OPM stuff was relatively expensive but damn they're nice. The G Force stuff was relatively cheap, but they do a great job too. The newer G-Force stuff they kind of stepped up their "appearance" on. Their stuff just doesn't have the cheaper look and feel that it use to. At least not as much. So that's why I bought their shoes and helmet a year ago when I needed some new ones.
Do I want a 5 point or 6 point harness? Does it matter much? Seems like a 5 point would be more comfortable.
Can I coil up the abandoned wire and stick it in the dash?
By the way, the family and I are really enjoying learning and building a car together.
About the wiring...
All of the abandoned wiring...can I coil it up and stick it in the dashboard? (Maybe put it in the glove box
And the little plastic things that hold the wire in place...can I replace with a sheet metal screw through a zip tie?
[/b]
Can I coil up the abandoned wire and stick it in the dash?
By the way, the family and I are really enjoying learning and building a car together.
Just the opposite 6 is more comfortable then a 5. But then again it depends on the belt manufacturer and how they design it. I have the Schroth Profi II and absolutely love it. Quality is absolutely first rate. The 2" vs 3" lap belt is more comfortable. It's FIA approved so it will in compliance with the rules longer. And you can change it from a pull-up to pull-down and vice versa. You'll spend a little more but it's worth every penny.
http://english.schroth.com/racing/produktd...?id=5&id_kat1=1
http://english.schroth.com/racing/produktd...?id=5&id_kat1=1
So I am shopping for a kill switch. Quite honestly I am not up to speed on the electrical system for a car...but reading about it everyday. I see that there is a switch which includes a resistor for alternator protection. Is that the switch I need or can I use the one without protection?
I cut and pasted this from a post some years back. No need for a resistor.
I wired my car (1990 CRX Si) as such:
Remove the large white wire from the alternator (output wire) and from the main fuse panel in the engine compartment. You can remove this wire completly from the wiring harness if you wish, I did, in order to ensure that it did not splice or "t" to any other circuits. It didn't.
Remove the stock battery (+) cable that goes from the battery to the main fuse panel and to the starter. Disconnect all three connections. Again, discard, if you wish. I removed the crimp on battery terminal from this wire and re-used it.
Install a white wire (or any colour you wish) from the alternator to one side of the disconnect switch. I used #10 wire, 12 or 14 is probably fine.
To the same side of the disconnect switch, run a red wire from the positive battery terminal. I used #6 wire, #8 is likely OK, Honda starters don't require a lot of juice.
From the OTHER side of the disconnect switch, run another large red wire to the starter.
From the starter, run another short wire (#10 is likely fine, I used #6) to the main fuse panel and connect it to the left terminal. This terminal is fused through the 60a main fuse, the other one (now unused) is not fused through the main fuse.
That does it!
To summarize, both possible sources of power (battery and alternator) are disconnected and isolated from the rest of the car through the switch. Any consumer of power, including alternator excitation, fuel pump, ignition, etc. is completely cut off by the switch.
Also, there is a path for the alternator current to flow to (momentarily) when you activate (move to OFF position) the switch, through the battery, which protects the alternator diodes.
I wired my car (1990 CRX Si) as such:
Remove the large white wire from the alternator (output wire) and from the main fuse panel in the engine compartment. You can remove this wire completly from the wiring harness if you wish, I did, in order to ensure that it did not splice or "t" to any other circuits. It didn't.
Remove the stock battery (+) cable that goes from the battery to the main fuse panel and to the starter. Disconnect all three connections. Again, discard, if you wish. I removed the crimp on battery terminal from this wire and re-used it.
Install a white wire (or any colour you wish) from the alternator to one side of the disconnect switch. I used #10 wire, 12 or 14 is probably fine.
To the same side of the disconnect switch, run a red wire from the positive battery terminal. I used #6 wire, #8 is likely OK, Honda starters don't require a lot of juice.
From the OTHER side of the disconnect switch, run another large red wire to the starter.
From the starter, run another short wire (#10 is likely fine, I used #6) to the main fuse panel and connect it to the left terminal. This terminal is fused through the 60a main fuse, the other one (now unused) is not fused through the main fuse.
That does it!
To summarize, both possible sources of power (battery and alternator) are disconnected and isolated from the rest of the car through the switch. Any consumer of power, including alternator excitation, fuel pump, ignition, etc. is completely cut off by the switch.
Also, there is a path for the alternator current to flow to (momentarily) when you activate (move to OFF position) the switch, through the battery, which protects the alternator diodes.
I sent the car to a body shop to check the chassis and unibody for straightness. Some minor work required to the unibody at the drivers headight. All else is good.
Spent Saturday trailering the car up to Chris Howard to build the cage and mount the seat !!!!!
The kill switch, window net and hood pins arrived.
Spent Saturday trailering the car up to Chris Howard to build the cage and mount the seat !!!!!
The kill switch, window net and hood pins arrived.