with all of the rules "clarifications" lately in the various threads, i have realized that i am a cheater in thought and actions and wanted to apologize to everyone for past and future deeds.
1) i will install a micro sleeve to save a crank if needed. even though i don't know what they are but i think i understand what they do.
2) i will install either 3/16" or 0.125" plate and angle to secure my 170 pounds of ballast although i could maybe get by with 0.080" plate and install 171 pounds of ballast instead.
3) my horn does not work although it is installed because i thought "any" steering wheel meant i could use one without a horn button.
4) i plan to install a quick release for my steering wheel because i think "any" steering wheel includes those that are mounted that way.
5) i broke my turn signal stalk off a few weeks ago the last time i got in my car when crawling over my door bars and around my fixed steering wheel and put it in the glove box. it may still be there for this year's first race or ducted taped to the column because it is low on my priority list. please note that duct tape is not a FSM repair.
6) i have racer's tape covering one of my turn signal lenses per the rules but it also holds it in place. part of the mounting tab was broken off by contact wtih a spec Neon-derthal. i added a couple of screws to replicate the tabs and added more tape. this was not a FSM repair.
7) same corner, different Neon-derthal, and under one body colored piece of racer's tape is a zip tie holding on part of the bumper cover. again, not a FSM repair.
8) i used 1.5 #'s of steel to mount my cut-out/ignition switch instead of 0.5 #'s and should be using a total of 172 pounds of ballast instead.
9) i weighed my new ballast blocks and found that one of them weighs 50.2 pounds on our new digital scales and i have thought, no, seriously contemplated, just saying close enough after calculating that the two 1/2" holes for the two mounting bolts would only remove 0.1 pounds. and then i realized that the two 1/2" bolts may be considered part of the block and with the bolts, washers and double lock nuts, they will weigh 50.3 pounds and i am totally screwed.
<strike>10) i have devised a scheme to add a roll bar brace that will curve over the spare tire in the back to ensure that if the wimpy mounting bolt in the back let's go, it will not come loose because i can not add to the mounting there cause iidsycyc.</strike> oops, that is legal.
10) at one time i had substituted an underpulley from another identical car that was the stock diameter and identical in every way except my dad and i had used his lathe to cut off the outer pulley area for the optional A/C because the rules said you could substitute a pulley for fewer belts. i was later told that i used a modified pulley and that a modified pulley was not a substituted pulley.
11) i have not drilled an inspection hole in every single new brace i added for my rollcage doorbars although i did have my cordless drill and offered at the annual tech day.
12) i have four extra holes drilled in part of the front fender well after having to revise my transponder mounting location because one track could not pick up my signal. i find out later that this track has a weak signal/antennae pickup system compared to the other six i ran and never had a problem. but drilling four extra 3/16" holes is not a FSM event and welding them shut is not a FSM repair either. i have basically destroyed this entire chassis
there i feel better, do you? 
tom
p.s., any resemblemce to actual 12 step programs in not intentional nor meant to diminish the good work they do. two out of the three voices in my head said i should say that.
1985 CRX Si competed in Solo II: AS, CS, DS, GS
1986 CRX Si competed in: SCCA Solo II CSP, SCCA ITA, SCCA ITB, NASA H5
1988 CRX Si competed in ITA & STL
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