You may use ecentric control arm bushings to move the wheels out and reduce the axle interferance. This also helps by needing less camber adjustment at the strut. When at all possible, add camber at the bottom of the car, not the strut tops. This widens the car, (often more better.)
Anyplace where there are bolts that hold the control arm, should be optimized. That is ,the balljoint bolts should be pulled out as far as you can, before tightening. the control arm bolts, etc.
You may also shove the engine away from the short axle side to keep it from hitting the end, with a stay bar or creative slotting of the mount areas. Most often the short axle breaks. The lowest the car should be is the axle hits the body/fender well. at full down. You may find that A 1 axles are shorter than A2. Check the part #. Most are not the same, yet fit the car.
WFM,,, MM
I foregot; the rear height determines the inside front wheel traction, also turn in push. raising the rear gives a better turn in , but also lifts the front wheel and will go slower. I predict that you will go slower with the rear any higher than needed to keep the tires off the fender. MM
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