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Thread: Pre-season race car prep

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    New Albany IN USA
    Posts
    35

    Default Pre-season race car prep

    I have a 1985 Mazda RX-7 IT-7 car, and need help with prep-items to go thru and what needs to be checked and serviced for the race season, also alignment setting, toe, camber, ride height etc. I realize this is track dependant but some basic ballpark starting points.
    also if you have a checklist to use. that would be great, so far I have changed oil and oil filter, fuel filter, cleaned air cleaner, checked and filled differential, I plan on nuts and bolt check, change spark plugs, check dwell and timing, belts, bleed and check brakes and clutch, adjust clutch and flush radiator and add water,water wetter.
    any help and guidance would be appreciated.
    Johhny

    ------------------
    Johhny R.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

    Default

    Check the dates on your belts and net; does it have a fuel "test port"?

    Stickers and numbers?

    A nice wash & wax.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    1,215

    Default

    Have you got the manditory tow hooks installed?

    On RX7's:

    Check your rotors for hairline cracks. If they're early rotors 79-83, check the bearings for wear (they're smaller than the 84/85s)

    Flush the brake fluid and make sure that the rear calipers (if a disk brake rear is used) are working. The ebrake mechanism will sometimes freeze up which basically disables the rear calipers.

    Make sure the Oil Metering Valve is operating, or pre-mix your fuel. You don't want to run your rotary w/o any oil getting into the combustion chamber.

    Also, check your t-stadt to be sure it opens at the right temp.

    ------------------
    Scott Rhea
    It's not what you build...
    it's how you build it

    Izzy's Custom Cages

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Franksville, WI
    Posts
    144

    Default

    Check:
    - front bearings, rotors, pads
    - tranny fluid
    - drain a/f at the housing, flush, etc
    - idler arm bushings
    - electrical connections esp engine ground & fuel pump
    - may want to give it a good de-carbonizing with atf
    - replace windshield, fender, hood, door, control arm, straighten frame.... (oh, that's just me!)

    Where do you run?

    ------------------
    Steve
    [email protected]
    <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/jake7140" TARGET=_blank>My racing page
    </A><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/elrss" TARGET=_blank>Elkhart Lake Racing_&_Sipping Society
    </A>

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Manchester, MA
    Posts
    68

    Default

    ATF? No way would I do that. That's a trick for stuck apex seals in a street motor. Have you seen the inside of a race motor that's been run at max rpm for hours and hours, they are as clean as a whistle. The ATF risks deteriorating the coolant seals.

    ------------------
    Jamie Kekeisen
    86 ITS RX-7 NER
    92 325IS under construction

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Camas, WA
    Posts
    531

    Default

    This winter:
    Rewire entire car
    Dyno
    remove rear suspension, lube all bushings
    check all bolts and bushings/ on seat/ front suspension, engine compartment
    change oil
    change plugs
    vaccum (sp?)
    wash
    wax
    flush brake system
    check calipers / rotors/ fron wheel bearings

    Marcus

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