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Thread: Installation of OT/WT/OP gauge panel on 1st Gen

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    347

    Default Installation of OT/WT/OP gauge panel on 1st Gen

    I believe this topic has been posted before, but since the #@$&*%$ search tool doesn't work on this site...

    Anyone install a Longacre or similar gauge and warning light panel on a 1st gen? With a mechanical sender/senser require for every gauge and a electricak sender/senser required for every warning light, I can't figure out how or where to hook everything up. And the fittings on the sensers they supply are all the larger sizes... I assume more suited for "american iron".
    I did order the Racing Beat adapter that provides ports for OT/OP sensors but I beleive their 3/8"F and 1/8"F....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Bridgewater, MA USA
    Posts
    1,300

    Default

    I went with all electrical gauges to keep oil out of the passenger compartment...

    The electrical stuff is pretty easy is you follow the directions that come with the gauges. I used all Autometer stuff on my second gen and the directions were solid.

    AB

    ------------------
    Andy Bettencourt
    06 ITS RX-7
    FlatOut Motorsports
    New England Region
    www.flatout-motorsports.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    148

    Default

    The oil gauges should fit the RB block. As for the water temp I had to make a couple trips to NAPA to find the right adapter to go into the water pump housing. I recommend taking the gauge and temp sensor you are removing with you to get the right adapter the first time. I didn't hook up lights so I can't help with that.

    Good luck,
    Eric

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sylvan Lake, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    158

    Default

    I used Autometer mechanical water temp and oil pressure. Connected the w/t to the heater connection at the back drivers left of the engine block, and the o/p into the normal o/p place.

    I think mechanical are more realistic than electrical.

    Check your gauges on every straight, and you won't need warning lites. Besides, by the time the warning light comes on, it's probably too late.

    ------------------
    G. Brooke Carter
    Wheat Buckley Racing
    # 10 Challenge Car
    Calgary, Alberta

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Lakeland, Fl.
    Posts
    310

    Default

    I use Autometer gauges also. (mechanical only) and have them set with the oil pressure on the left and water temp on the right between the tach. I also have them turned so they both point at the tach on a horizontal line so all I do is look for the postition of the gauges and not the actual numbers. If they are both flat, I don't have to have to worry. and that allows me to concentrate on the track instead.

    Mike Cox
    #37 IT7
    CFR

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    347

    Default

    wlfpkrcn (Eric) or anyone,
    Do you know is it possible to stack two of the Racing Beat adapter plates? That would give me the extra ports needed for the OP/OT warning lights.

    Also what are you tieing into on the waterpump? I don't see any bung or port on the 1st gen water pump (mines an 1985 12A)

    All, the reason why I like the added lights is to call attention to the situation before its too late. I understand the concept of turning the gauges so the needle at 12 o'clock is the normal position...but I'd like a bit more of an obvious alert if somethings going into the danger zone. And if I drop Oil pressure I don't want to wait until I get to the next long straight to find out. After cooking an engine last year, call me a bit more cautious than normal.

    Thanks to all for insights!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    148

    Default

    I have never seen 2 RB blocks stacked. It might work, although you would need some long studs. If you are not using the stock guage I would remove the stock oil pressure sender and use it for a light. I guess you could possibly T it. I used to have a ThunderRoadster (600 racing) with the Yahmaha engine. They used a brass fitting to do the same thing.Actually it was for pressure and ignition cut in case of no pressure. It broke about 10 minutes into the first warm up session. If you could find something to handle the vibration that would be a possibility. As far as the coolant temp I removed the switch on the backside below the thermostat. Hope this helps.

    Eric

  8. #8
    Guest

    Default

    http://members.aol.com/fastnblue/Dcp00707.jpg

    sevensonly.com can set you up with the right fittings and tech help.

    [This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited April 05, 2003).]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    347

    Default

    Darryl,

    Thanks for the tip. Talked to the sevensonly people yesterday. You're right they have what I needed to hook up most of the connections.

    Thanks again.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Brighton, MI, USA
    Posts
    151

    Default

    7's Racing,
    I checked out the guage photo link...nice work. I also edited your link to find any other "fastnblue" photos... WOW! Who's the chick looking out the window? What's the story behind the passed-out picnic table girl?

    rlekun,
    Need a gauge panel fabricated to fit the stock console hole...let me know.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Cocpus Christi, Texas
    Posts
    4

    Default

    7's Racing ....That is one beautiful interior...I think you car is cleaner than my house!

    Brought a tear to my eye!

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