Removable steering wheel and PTT setup

[ITSRX7]

OK second gen guys and gals:

What quick release hub is everyone using and/or what is the latest in that technology for the ITS 2nd gen cars? I would LIKE to BOLT on...welding is 2nd choice.

I also want to move from my 'Push To Talk' (PTT) button, to a horn actuated setup. Anyone done this yet? Is it as simple as wiring up a new steering wheel with that capability by taking apart the PTT switch?

Any and all help and recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!

AB

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Andy Bettencourt
06 ITS RX-7
FlatOut Motorsports
New England Region
[email protected]

[BALLZOUT]

I used a hex style release, the spline type have a lot of slop after a year or two. And the only way to install one is to cut off the stock threads and weld it on !Have fun,Rick

[Quickshoe]

I've had the opposite experience. I would never buy a HEX shaft thingy again. The involute spline shaft (S.P.A.) will give the best fit/least slop. This is one of the areas where I won't cut corners. No turning the wheel from 11 to 1 o'clock without the wheels moving for me.

As to the install, I'm not aware of any that would be a bolt on.

[GEO46]

I believe MOMO makes a bolt on adapter. At least my adapter is a bolt on and it has a MOMO wheel. Sorry, it was already there when I bought the car.

[Mazmarc]

Andy

DO NOT cut corners on this item. I have seen two cars destroyed because the welds broke on the steering shaft and the wheel came off at the wrong place.(one was at the bottom of turn 12 at Road Atlanta!)

Having said that, IMO the hex type with the pull collar for release is the most user friendly. I have had mine for 6 years and have had zero problems. No slop. None. No pins to push. No splines to line up. I have driven many a car with all different types of quick release wheels. That is what I base my opinion on.

Now, the way I attached it might be somewhat excessive but at the time my friend Rob Debardelaben(remember him?)insisted on letting him machine a short piece of stainless pipe that actually threaded onto the steering shaft. I then welded it. Then he machined the ID of the hex mount to fit over the pipe. Welded it, front and back. Then he machined a spacer that bolted to the quick release flange that I bolted the wheel to.

Take the time and do it right. After all, dont you have all kinds of time on your hands now that's it winter up there.:-)



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Marc Dana
#63 ITS Mazda Rx-7
#77 STS BMW 325I

[Greg Amy]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">What quick release hub is everyone using</font>

Piece of cake and it all bolts right up. Using LTB Motorsports as an example (Louis haunts the IT Forums as well):

Momo Monte Carlo Steering wheel, $143 new, http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/montecarlo.html

Momo hub kit, $48 (http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/hubkit.html)

Quick Release hub. I have the Smart Racing one (http://smartracing.net/ProdCat/Drive...20Comforts.htm, part number 722100, $220) but it appears Louis is offering one that looks just like it for $140, http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/dilquicrelhu.html

(Optional) Momo steering wheel spacer, $22, http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/momsteerwhee.html

Steering wheel stuff, $353 total. I use this setup and it works great:

http://www.gatm.com/cars/nx2000/images/DCP_2458.jpg
http://www.gatm.com/cars/nx2000/images/DCP_2457.jpg

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I also want to move from my 'Push To Talk' (PTT) button, to a horn actuated setup...Is it as simple as wiring up a new steering wheel with that capability by taking apart the PTT switch?</font>

Depends on your radio. Some radios open the mic circuit by grounding to a common ground, some work by closing a mic circuit loop. You need to get with the manufacturer of your radio to find out for sure.

However, I suggest against doing it as you describe. Even if it works, your radios will be very sensitive to voltage variances, and any additional resistance could cause noise problems.

What kind of PTT are you using now? I have a home-grown VHF radio system. I'm using a modified David Clark PTT switch originally sold for small aircraft. Also works great.

GregA

[Silkworm]

I have the spline type, what we did was take the stock nut for the threaded shaft, chuck that in a drill press, and 'lathe' it round and trimmed it to be a tight fight inside the sleeve. Then threaded the nut onto the shaft, welded that to the shaft, then welded the sleeve to the nut, as well as to the other end of the shaft.

As for using the horn, I don't know about the electronics aspects, but having the button so far away from my fingers on the wheel would be a problem IMHO.. I'd rather have the button at 2 o'clock on the wheel where my thumb naturally sits

PaulC

[Chris Wire]

The steering coupler is one of the very next projects on my list. I will be using a splined-type unit. The hex units are very sensitive to steering wheel position, whereas the splined units can compensate for irregularities. It is less important to absolutely center the steering wheel before doing an alignment when using the splined coupler. Mine is this one:

http://racecareng.com/RCE/index.php?action...no=SWE801-70004

As for the shaft, since most import cars have a shaft that is smaller than the 3/4" ID of the splined part, I simply install a 3/4 > 5/8 rod end reducer bushing down the inside of the splined piece before welding. This keeps the splined piece in line with the steering shaft, preventing the wheel from doing funky things when you turn it from lock-to-lock.

http://racecareng.com/RCE/index.php?action...art_no=AAA10475

The key to safety with this item is a proper weld. Any good weld should be as good as the metal surrounding it. Therefore, it is wise to make sure that the welds on both the top and bottom are 360 degrees around the steering shaft.

Louis - (if you're lurking) Do you sell the adapter that converts the standard 3-hole steering hub over the the MOMO/Sparco 6-hole pattern? If so, could you be persuaded to bring one with you to Sebring this weekend? Let me know here or reply to [email protected] . Thanks.

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Chris Wire
Team Wire Racing
ITS Mazda RX7 #35
[email protected]

[Krusty]

I use a splined type... picked it up off of ebay for $20. I too wanted to be able to take the set-up with me in case I wadded the car. Took sort of a similar approach to Silkworm and Mazmarc.

I took the stock wheel, and cut out the center portion (about 2" diameter) so I'd have the piece that would marry up to the steering shaft on the car. I then welded that to the bottom of the quick release splined tube. It's a good idea to put some gussets on this junction. Then I fabricated a cylindrical nut type thing... just a bit larger than a tube of ChapStick. Drilled and threaded one end, and machined a 7/16 head on the other. When all's said and done... the top of the 7/16 head sits flush with the top of the quick release splined tube.

It's a bit of work (even to describe)... but kinda fun too. Not much I can do to my Spec7 car... so any opportunity to get creative is a novelty. ;-)

Good luck!

[Allen Brown]

I completely concure with the comment...DO IT RIGHT!!

I have personally had my steering wheel come off as I started my turn-in on the second fastest corner in Calgary. Luckily, I had sufficient run off room to allow me to get away with this unscathed.

It was caused from the shop that welded the collar onto the steering column shaft with the end of the collar at the end of the column shaft. The quick connect must not have worked, so they ground off the weld to a wafer thin film of metal. I did not catch the obvious welding blunder.

A simple fix was to extend the collar past the column where a good solid bead could be run on the end of the shaft and inside of the collar.

Yes...I rambled some, maybe even a bunch, but please don't cut any corners on this.

Have fun, and Race hard....

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Allen Brown
#36 IT1
[email protected]

[lateapex911]

I wish I used a spline unit. My hex unit has slop. I'm sure that's not the nature of the beast, but I think the spline units have, in general, better tolerances and less slop.

Plus, my steering wheel is never straight!

I agree on the PTT thing. I'd pick up a wheel with provisions for switches, or just fab a panel out of black brushed alum. and fit behind the wheel and what ever spacer or adapter you use.

While I hate my sloppy hex release, I flat love my suede MOMO. Suede is great! Although I don't think I'm spelling it right!

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Jake Gulick
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]

[xr4racer]

Here is what I did and the reason. I already has a Momo wheel and the bolt on hub from Momo for the 2nd gen. I wanted a quick release and also preferred the bolt on route, so I found that Dave Turner Motorsports sells a bolt on set up. It is the hex type quick release welded to an adapter plate to let it bolt to the Momo hub adapter which is already bolted to you column. The kit also includes the aluminum adapter plate to bolt the 3 bolt quick release to your Momo wheel. The benefits were twofold, it all bolted together and also spaced the steering wheel closer to me, which was one of my objectives. I think the kit from Dave Turner is around $120.00. I got the hub adapter from The Wheel Source.

[ITSRX7]

Just a follow up. Special thanks to Greg Amy for his lead.

I got my entire setup from LTB Motorsports (http://www.ltbmotorsport.com/index.html). I got the Momo Mod 80 suede wheel with two wired buttons, commonly used for PTT and to cycle through you Pi Stack (if you have one).

Teamed that with an adapter for a 2nd gen RX-7 and a bolt on quick release - and I went splined.

Service was OUTSTANDING.

AB

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Andy Bettencourt
06 ITS RX-7
FlatOut Motorsports
New England Region
www.flatout-motorsports.com

[This message has been edited by ITSRX7 (edited January 08, 2003).]

[joeg]

On the PTT thing, I saw something like what you are thinking of in the 2003 Demon Tweeks catalog.

Don't know if it would work for a radio (I think it was for steering wheel mounted instruments--a sequential shift light)but it looked neat. Obviously you are looking to eliminate the cord that wraps around the column??

Cheers.

[Rex B]

Jake - and others with loose hex-adapters. You can tighten those up with a sharp punch and a friend holding a solid backup "anvil". Just peen 4 to 6 dimples on each of the 6 faces. Your release hub probably won't go back on afterwards, but carefully knock the high spots off with a fine file and you can make it fit however tight you feel comfortable with.

Rex Burkheimer