Engine Break In

[Campbell]

I have my engine rebuild complete!! 40 over, new bearings, rings, all the seals and a rebuilt head.

I haven't started it yet since it is so cold here (-7 to +9 in Chicago) but it is supposed to get to the mid 40's next week so I thought I would start it then.

My question, what is the best way to break this engine in? I really don't have access to anywhere to drive it except a racetrack. Anything I can do to be sure and get this off to a good start? thanks

[joeg]

If you put a new cam in it; start it and run it at 2500 rpm for 10 minutes.

Check for leaks, especially fuel and tighten the bolts, etc. that may have come loose.

Change your break-in oil and filter--Dino I hope.

Then take it to a chassis dyno shop and do some hard pulls (since you do not have a racetrack to run this time of the year).

Hard loaded runs are the best for a good ring seating.

If you do not have that dyno, leave it pretty much alone until you can get it to a track--any track!(drag strip, etc.). You can start it for further systems checks, timing, etc., but no extended rev ups in the garage!

Cheers.

[VW16VRacer]

Perfect Joe, right on the money. If you are running cast iron rings then the rings should seat fairly quickly, most likely in that 10 minute run. Then change the oil and if you are running it on the dyno then run it as normal pulls. If you are going to run it on the track do not be too easy on it. "break it in like you race it" I have always been doing. With chrome rings just make sure you cut down on the number of short engine starts that the engine, coolant and oil doesn't reach temp ie: one or two fan cycles. To get chrome rings to seat you need to get some heat cycle times, make sure you keep a eye on the oil level before every outing. Hopefully new head bolts and some sort of rod bolts {ARP...}and oil pump.

Jon

[Campbell]

Thanks for your suggestions, yes everything is new: all the seals, head and rod bolts(ARP), oil pump, water pump.. everything. I got most all the parts from BSI - I am not sure what the rings were.. the box didn't say other than they were for 40 over pistons. I will have to find out on that. And yes I will start it with light weight dino oil!!
Merry Xmas to all.

[Bill Miller]

Before you start it, make sure you pre-oil it. I use the shaft from an old distributor, and run it in a cordless drill. I crank the oil pump for 30 seconds or so, just to get oil all through the motor before I light it up.

Best of luck and Merry Christmas!

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

[mtgmanracing]

This is what BSI sent me with my engine:

1. YOU MUST FLUSH THE OIL COOLER PRIOR TO RUNNING
ENGINE * any engine failure relating to contamination will void the
warranty

2. ENGINE MUST BE OILED BY TURNING THE OIL PUMP AT THE
DISTRIBUTOR.

3. 20W-50 MUST BE USED FOR THE FIRST 1000 MILES. MOBIL 1
MAY BE USED THEREAFTER.

4. SET TIMING AT START-UP TO 32DEG @4500 RPM.

5. RUN ENGINE @2500RPM FOR THE FIRST 20 MINUTES TO
BREAK-IN NEW CAMSHAFT.

6. RUN ENGINE THREE SESSIONS FOR @20 MINUTES, LETTING
THE ENGINE COOL DOWN (COOL TO THE TOUCH) BETWEEN
EACH SESSION.

7. Track sessions as follows…
· 1st session – 5000 RPM
· 2nd session – 5500 RPM
· 3rd session – 6000 RPM
· 4th session – GO FOR IT!!!

8. As always, watch for any water or oil leaks in the first few hours of use.

[Campbell]

The BSI instructions are interesting, I don't need to worry about a new camshaft break in however I wonder what the 3 warm up sessions are for? also, what theory is behind setting the timing at 32 @ 4500 versus the 45 @ 4500 for the JH in the Bentley? any thoughts? thanks

[Campbell]

Bill,

I looked at an old distribtor I have to make an oil pump priming shaft.. how did you get the gear off the shaft? or did you grind down the teeth? thanks

[racer_tim]

I used an old adjustable hole cutting drill bit, and just made a notch in it, so it attaches to the top of the oil pump, and spun up the oi pressure before I started the new motor.



------------------
Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[Campbell]

Oh it is so sweet when it starts up the first time!! it started on the first hit! I ran it for 20 min at 2200 and it was so smooth. I did pre-oil it by using an old distributor shaft as Bill suggested. Only a couple small leaks, one corner of the valve cover and the oil pan plug - otherwise very dry.

This is a solid lifter JH 40 over engine, I am interested on what would be the optimum distributor timing, and why.. I had always used the Bentley -45 at 4500 but am intrigued as to why BSI recommends -32 at 4500. What do you guys do? thanks

[racer14itc]

Originally posted by Campbell:
Oh it is so sweet when it starts up the first time!! it started on the first hit! I ran it for 20 min at 2200 and it was so smooth. I did pre-oil it by using an old distributor shaft as Bill suggested. Only a couple small leaks, one corner of the valve cover and the oil pan plug - otherwise very dry.

This is a solid lifter JH 40 over engine, I am interested on what would be the optimum distributor timing, and why.. I had always used the Bentley -45 at 4500 but am intrigued as to why BSI recommends -32 at 4500. What do you guys do? thanks

Campbell,

I'd follow Stu's directions. He knows what he's doing!

MC


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Mark Coffin
#14 GP BSI Racing/Airborn Coatings/Krispy Kreme/Tristram's Garage VW Scirocco
http://pages.prodigy.net/Scirocco14gp

[racer_tim]

Isn't Stu's 32 degree with his "re-curved" distributor?



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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[Bildon]

>> start it and run it at 2500 rpm for 10 minutes.

There are 2 camps on this issue. Th eabove is teh long held belif and then there are a number of engine builders who totally disagree with the slow run-in process. Why? Becuase your rings will never seat properly and you're giving up 100% ring seal.

I don't pretend to be a professional engine builder but the 2 people who I consult and who I consider the gurus of VW engine building over the past 20 years (Bertisl and Interprep) both suggest that if an engine is built properly, the cam and bearing sufaces do not need to be run in and that in order to acheive maximum ring seal the engine must be run hard immediately.

This jives with what I observed when I was employed by a championship IMSA team. I use to have to take engines from the assembly shop "up the hill" to the dyno which was in adifferent building. Often I was lucky enough to help with the hook up and initial runs. There were no "break in" procedures other than NEVER using synthetic oil on the firt run. The engines were always run hard immediately.

Here is an article that goes into more detail on this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's entitled:
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !



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Bill Sulouff - Bildon Motorsport
Volkswagen Racing Equipment
## 2003 ITB NYSRRC Champs ##

[joeg]

All true Bill (Hard break-in), but without a dyno or a race track for a driveway, I think you are best going with the 10 minutes at a higher RPM (don't let it idle).

Besides every cam manufacturer I know making that recommendation, there is a safety reason for not simply starting any rebuild under a true full load--leaks.

I know that even being super careful on assembly installation, etc. I always seem to have someting spring a leak, whether it being fuel, coolant or oil.