Originally posted by Grumpa:
I have just bought a 79 ITC Rabbit. The car is behind, developmentwise, in regards to suspension, motor, etc, ad infinitum. I will be running in CenDiv at MidOhio, IRP, Gingerman, etc.

1)Springs - rates & lengths, Eibach or Hyper.
2)Ride height - minimum or ?
3)Suspension bushings - stock, poly, teflon?
4)Tires - Hoosier, Toyo, Kuhmo, ?
5)Sway bars - rates
6)Bosch CIS - pressure?
7)Computer chip - stock or aftermarket?
8)Motor - is it possible to build my own 1.6 or better to farm this out?
9)How rampant is the "creative interpretation" of the rulebook?
10)Any other area not mentioned above

Thanks, and God bless all racers.
Here are my opinions on this as well. I'm building an ITC Rabbit, and after 6 years of racing an ITC Scirocco I'll add the following:

#1. Start with softer, and then work towards stiffer rates as you get comfortable with the car.

#2. Depends on the tire choice. What I found was that the static roll center liked to be on the ground. With a 225/45-13 tire, this meant that the inner pickup point on the front control arm was about 1/2"-3/4" below the ball joint. If you run a different tire, this will change. I've run as much as a 1" split depending on the tire.

#3. Poly or Delrin are fine. Heims are better, but much more expensive.

#4. Get some Toyos in the 185/60 size. They'll give good grip and last forever. When you're ready to go fast, bolt on a set of Hoosiers and let 'er rip!

#5. Most guys in the Southeast run the OPM sway bar, usually the 1" size. Combine this with a stock GTI bar, and you'll have plenty of rear roll stiffness. If you're lifting the rear more than a little bit in the corners (ask your crew or the guy following you!), you've got too much rear roll stiffness.

#6. Get a CIS fuel pressure test kit and check the system and control pressures. If they're within the stock specifications, leave it alone and race it. There is a little bit of HP to be found by fiddling with the CIS, but you're just as likely to lose horsepower (or an engine).

#7. Didn't know these cars came with a chip.

#8. A pro built motor will make more horsepower, and no they won't tell you how! Otherwise, build a solid motor and get the suspension/driver sorted out first!

#9. Depends. The guys running up front at the ARRC are legit. Most cheating goes on in the midpack, where talent seems to be lacking.

#10. Don't fool with a 5 speed. Get a good 4 speed, put a Quaife in it and be done. The 5 speed R&P will cost a fortune, you'll start breaking 5th gears, and/or you'll trash a motor with the dreaded "4-3 upshift". I've seen it done many times (both broken 5th gears and the missed upshift to 5th). Just make sure your 4 speed has the 1.29 third gear, and not the 1.37 (unless you're planning on racing at Summit Point or Kershaw).

No one has mentioned rear toe-in. Most of time I'd recommend 1/16" toe-in on each side in the rear. Some guys will run zero or a touch of toe-out, but that's for the brave of heart!

Also, I'd recommend an ACCUSUMP for the VW's. Even with a good baffled pan (Schrick or trap door type) I've seen oil pressure fluctuate in certain types of turns. And you can't run the oil level higher to compensate because then you'll just whip it into a froth and your oil temps will skyrocket.

Just my opinions of course...

Mark Coffin
#14 GP VW Scirocco
#44 ITC Rabbit ... coming soon!
#14 ITC Scirocco... retired.