As long as everything still works, just drive the damn thing. Work on seat time first, then go-fast parts 2nd.

A couple things to add from what Sam said.

Diff and R&P. Get some kind of limited slip diff or go with a spool or welded diff. Anything is better than an open diff.

Tires. Since you run the 13" rim, consider getting some take off Spec Racer Yok's. The rears are 205x60x13 and they will last quite a while. The Toyo's will also last quite a while. Shave them to 4/32's and keep a full tread set for wets.

You also might want to consider the rear shim kit, so you can get 2 degrees negative camber in the rear.

Build your own motors at first. Anybody can do a 1" port into the head and manifold. Balance EVERYTHING (crank, rods, pistons, clutch, flywheel)

Get a baffled oil pan and a high capacity pump. Just remember that the #3 rod bearing is the last device in the loop, so that bearing will spin first. Trust me, I know.

Hawk Blue pads

Replace the front hub bearings at least once a year. I carry a spare set (full hub assembly) with me all the time.

Oil cooler is a must on these VW motors.

Bosch CIS FI. Leave it alone. If it's not broke don't fix it.

Have fun




------------------
Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 LP GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[This message has been edited by racer_tim (edited March 19, 2003).]

[This message has been edited by racer_tim (edited March 19, 2003).]