Hello there, almost forgot about this site..

-I ran a IT7 in fla region 95-00, hope this helps....

heres are the random thoughts I can remember:

heat kills,

but I ran valvoline RACING 20/50 and saw 210 all day long, and often 220, 260 on oil temp, change it each weekend. motors ran good.

ran 3oz amsoil 2 cycle oil per 5 gal fuel,

ran super blue brake fluid, w/ 2 ducts, small aimed at rotor, plus center duct.
hawk blue front brakes, blacks rear, used street rotors worked best, and 'aged' brake rotors (sat in back yard) worked ok. Normally cracked a rotor a weekend.

tri link rear end worked best, (better than pan hard), the cheaters got diffent gears (out of miata, and rwd 626) 3rd, 5th. - best, (also in 2nd gen),

lollypop disallowed intake porting, exaust helps a little.

waterpumps tend to cavitate, so we pulled thermostat, and added washer to restrict water flow. run large alt pully, (some would disconnect for qualifying or even sprint race)

hoosiers last 2 weekends but are slower than toyos 2nd weekend. kuhmos about par w/ toyos.

exaust: racing beat header 2 pipes all way back behind axle for collector. dynomax muffler. (never extend muffler past bumper) strenghten bumpers/fenders w/ foam in can.

I ran tokio adj shocks w/ 400lb springs, ackerman kit worked well, 79 carb was best, and we closed up waterjacked.

ISC source for many parts, including brake ducts, oil lines.

trans are weak. 3rd gear mostly went,

Air filters were free, so the bottoms were coated w/ heat shields, as were the carb insulator (and extensions).

lastly keeping the driver cool is worth 2 seconds a lap, after the first 10 min, (at least in florida), camelback, cool suit, airducts, are cheap horsepower.

try to think of racing as a hobby, not a blood sport. resist the red mist... no sense killing yourself or anyone else for a ten dollar bowling trophy.. eh?