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Thread: Master Switch Location

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    1,499

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Amy View Post
    Only problem I have with those is that, technically, they may not be compliant to the GCR, which states "shall cut all electrical circuits but not an on-board fire system" (my emphasis). As I understand it, the latching circuit on those is always hot. Thus, you must ensure the latching-relay circuit is properly fused at the battery. Without that, in a crash if one of those wires is grounded it could cause sparks/fire and potentially not drop the master circuit. Can you post a circuit diagram of it?

    Regardless, they're good systems if installed correctly, and I don't think anyone will give you any grief over it at all.
    Hmmmm.... good question. Not sure how to draw it up but your probably right. I know it passes SCCA pro rules as well as grand-am, but this is club racing not pro...

    I well ask jim to make up a diagram to post

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Orlando, FL
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    1,391

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    I have 2, and did so for 2 reasons:
    1 - my preferred mounting in the car wound up being roughly in the middle of the cockpit on the petty bar (diagonal from the main hoop to passenger floor downbar of front hoop) as I couldn't reach the area to the left of the wheel due to seating position. the wheel is extened a good amount and I lowered the column as far as I could. I'm really far back and down in the car.
    2 - by the left rear main hoop support in the trim panel beside the engine lid. it's an MR2 and the battery is right there, so this gave me an ooportunity to have an external switch accessible by safety workers and a convenient place to attach the wire harness without modifing it substantially from stock where it tied to the + post of the battery.

    the interior switch also interupts ignition, while the exterior swictch interupts injector power. no alternator lines, shunts to ground, etc... either aswitch kills the engine and all electricals with it. main run of cable is batt + -> interior switch -> exterior switch -> starter and power distribution

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

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    I wouldn't go with two because they are not a 100% reliable bit if kit. Kill switches do fail and it has happened to me twice. I would not like to double the chances of a failure. When they do break, it can drive you crazy and/or ruin a session.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,391

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    Agreed, I did mine that way because of access. Single switch installations are preferred.

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