Copper plate back-up is your friend.
Heck..don't fret; everyone blows holes through sheet metal.
Copper plate back-up is your friend.
Heck..don't fret; everyone blows holes through sheet metal.
Unfortunately a copper backing plate is not an option. Thanks for the reassurance that everyone blows holes in sheet. I think part of my problem is I am worrying too much about blowing holes instead of just doing what I know will work (most of the time).
"Hopscotch weld" basically you spot weld and move around the plate until you get enough tacks to be continuous or near so.
Spark/initiate on the heavier plate and melt onto the tin in short burst. Move an inch or so and repeat . around the plate.
That lets the weld cool between hits and will burn through less often. looks like poopsie tho but is strongerr than continuous burn weld due to less brittleness .
Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/
Thanks Mike. Once again it's good to be reassured it looks like poopsie. I must be doing it right.
I basically do it the way Mike mentioned as well.
Another way when you have more access is to keep the arc on the plate and let the weld puddle kinda 'drip' down onto the sheet metal. gotta move quick enough that you don't blow through the sheet, but I had good luck with that welding the plates to the floor.
Houston Region
STU Nissan 240SX
EProd RX7
I've had good luck with that method on the floor pans and other accessible areas too. The u!
Ultimate challenge is the upside down seam with a little bit larger than perfect gap. Talk about ugly! Fortunately it is a hard to see as it is to weld.
While we are all sharing secrets, what settings does everybody use for the above techniques? Settings for the thicker plate, the sheet metal, or something in between?
I've tried all with varying success using slightly different techniques for each. Just curious what people's preferences are.
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