theres a book? guess ill have to dive into this more and se what springs, bars, etc are actually in the car. I never bothered as the car handles well and is very fast.
theres a book? guess ill have to dive into this more and se what springs, bars, etc are actually in the car. I never bothered as the car handles well and is very fast.
also prob does have the mods as if i lift in a corner it tries to come around like my porsche but if you stand back on it it pulls away and puts itself back in line.
If the car is that fast, measure it well and write it down.Learn to drive it as it is.
Dont mess with success. Unlike the baseball coach that takes the kid hitting 440 and ¨helps¨ him.
Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/
so took your recommendations as the car had positive camber in the front and was off in the rear as well. now we are sitting with -2.2/-2.5 LF/RF for camber with -2.2/-2.3 for toe in front. for the rear we are at -1.9/-3.1 LR/RR and 4.5/5.8 toe. I will need to reshim the rearm assuming (this is all new to me as i usually do the motor and drive and leave the chassis to someone else - but I'm going to have to do it sooner or later). Saw these ez shims (a round disc you cut parts out of) that oriely sells. Unless you scream deathtrap with these setting, ill be running at savannah this weekend as is and the try and fix them for road atlanta next month. is there a "better" shim setup ands do they control each (camber & toe) separately or onlyy together?
Moog # K977 for shims. carquest can get them.
Toe out both ends a little.
Mike Ogren , FWDracingguide.com, 352.4288.983 ,http://www.ogren-engineering.com/
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