ITS Brake Ducting - Rear

[BeerBudgetRacing]

I'm new to IT and building a car that was originally built for Lemons..... So, we have some repairs and replacements to make....

I know I can use the existing holes in the front Air Dam for front brake cooling - my concern is the rear....
GCR 6b says:
Air ducts may be fitted to the brakes, provided that they extend
in a forward direction only, and that no changes are made in
the body/structure for their use.

My initial plan was to add some NACA ducts in the rocker panel to bring air to the rear brakes. My interpretation of the above is that I can't.
Am I correct? It's no-go on rocker panel ducts?

If that is a no go...
Can I mount scoops on the lower suspension to scoop under-car air - as long as it doesn't hang lower than the exhaust and wheel?

I'm trying to absorb all the rules & regs but I'm certain I will miss or misinterpret something....

Thanks !

[Matt93SE]

Rocker panel NACA ducts are a no-no. There was talk of some people putting them in the rear corner windows too, but then you'd have to cut a 3" hole in the body somewhere to get that air to the wheel wells.

For ITS, I'm not real sure that cooling of the rear brakes is necessary. Yes it will make things last a little longer, but I don't think it's necessary to reliably finish a race..

[JLawton]

If you end up over heating your rear brakes in IT, something else is seriously wrong. Focus your energy on the front brakes. I'm "assuming" it's a rear wheel drive? All the front wheel drive cars I've raced I've put the cheapest pads in the back because they really dont do much. Rear wheel (i.e. Miata, RX7, BMW) are a little better balanced but still............ over heating shouldnt be a concern......

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Its a 240z - drums in the rear....

Thanks guys - confirmed my interpretation and gave me perspective...

[Matt93SE]

ugh.. sorry dude. you're fooked. Actually the drums aren't that bad on those things, all things considered.
Put a 10psi residual pressure valve on the line going to the rear brakes and it'll save you a LOT of hassles.

You didn't buy Troy's old Z, did you? No way that thing would ever be legal for IT.....

[BeerBudgetRacing]

No - this was a stripped car.

Thanks for the tip on the residual valve...

[Ron Earp]

Excerpt from "Racing the 260Z" that I wrote when I sold the car. Maybe it'll help:

· Drum Brakes-These need to be adjusted every 30-45 mins of race time but are easily taken care of. Jack up the wheel and spin it. The brake should lightly drag on the wheel. If not the brake pedal probably won’t feel good and the rear braking will be weak. To fix it adjust the shoes out to increase drag by turning the star adjuster with a flat blade screwdriver. Look at the brake drum and you’ll see a 1” diameter hole. Rotate the wheel to approximately 6 oclock and you’ll be able to see the star wheel adjuster. Use the screwdriver as a level to turn the wheel and increase the brake drag. You’ll probably need to remove the wheel and drum once to learn how it all works before you can do it without removing the wheel and using the access hole.

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Excerpt from "Racing the 260Z" that I wrote when I sold the car. Maybe it'll help:

Care to share that paper? I'm sure there are other items to be had from it....

[Ron Earp]

Send me your email and I'll send that along with the old Seth Thomas setup notes I have. A lot of it will apply to you.

[cbuczesk]

Motorsport Auto is looking into getting the rear drum made in aluminum again. I don't know when (if?) they'll be available again. I got lucky and picked up a new pair at the Carlisle Import & Kit show a couple weekends ago.

Chuck

[BeerBudgetRacing]

Send me your email and I'll send that along with the old Seth Thomas setup notes I have. A lot of it will apply to you.

Thanks Ron. Much appreciated.