Tegris dude... See if you can still find some NASCAR COT splitters. I picked up a bunch of them a few years ago for like $10 each and made my splitter out of one of them. yeah it weighs 10lbs, but dirt? Don't care!
Tegris dude... See if you can still find some NASCAR COT splitters. I picked up a bunch of them a few years ago for like $10 each and made my splitter out of one of them. yeah it weighs 10lbs, but dirt? Don't care!
Houston Region
STU Nissan 240SX
EProd RX7
The reason I was thinking ABS is because that's what it's mounted to, and won't take out the bumper cover/undertray next time it hits something. Also, ABS vacuum forming looks like a good way to easily make a new one. I'm thinking I might make another ply wood splitter then make a mold and replicate in G-FRP. But ABS vacuum forming appears to be simple and quick.
how is your splitter mounted? we use a "L" shaped bracket bolted to transport tie-down locations on the bumper horns, the bottom of which has a slot at the front, opening to the rear, and a pin hole at the back. the splitter plate has mounts which capture the brackets in double shear, so the slotted mount "hole" never has to come undone. use a small bolt for the fixed mount and a 3/8" or so up front. one mount on each side. if you hit something, the rear pin shears and the splitter falls off, most if not completely intact. make it from good plywood covered in a thin layer of GFPR for toughness.
shorthand for fiberglass(glass fiber reinforced plastic)
I have some CAD I could screenshot and post, on car is not possible right now. hard part is a pin with enough strength to hold the splitter and "desired" loads while failing in a collision. also, if you add stays, they have to be able to give way OR allow the movement of the splitter plank.
the shape is structurally compromised to allow MR2 coolant hose routing, but you can see the top bolt locations which allow this to replace the OEM tie-down hooks, then the forward slot and rear pin-hole - that's 3/8" now and probably doesn't fail as intended (well, not without ancillary damages) but as is it certainly makes installation and removal easier. high hole on the front is to add a stay if needed, like a steel cable X across the radiator to the bumper mounts. the bottom part is pretty universal once you have a place to mount it. I'm happy to help draw or make one if you like.
Last edited by Chip42; 03-06-2014 at 02:21 PM.
I had a combination of carriage head bolts and screws to the ABS bumper cover and the aluminum under tray. It wound up breaking into three parts. The center peeled the aluminum undertray into a ball under the car and moving the oil cooler line into the alternator pully. The two corner stayed some what bolted on, except the drivers side finder liner was part of the aluminum ball, along with my unharmed wired transponder. Since I have to install a new bumper cover, I could bolt some mounts with break-away points onto the aluminum bumper bar, but was thinking of swiss cheesing the bar for nose weight reduction. What I want is something that's easy to replace, and doesn't take anything else (bumper cover, under-tray, or finder liners) out when it goes away.
plywood, attached from the top up to something like I showed will allow the splitter plank to break/break off without taking the bumper and other bits with it.
treat the splitter plate as disposable / expendable and you are halfway there.
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