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Thread: Vacuum Forming Splitter

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    Default Vacuum Forming Splitter

    After an encounter with a dirt berm, I need to make a new splitter. I'm considering using vacuum formed ABS sheet over a plywood mold for the splitter, then a second piece for the air dam bonded to the top. After my experience with the dirt berm I'd rather have the splitter break and not take anything else with it. Anyone else vacuum formed something as large as a splitter?

  2. #2
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    Jan 2010
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    Tegris dude... See if you can still find some NASCAR COT splitters. I picked up a bunch of them a few years ago for like $10 each and made my splitter out of one of them. yeah it weighs 10lbs, but dirt? Don't care!
    Houston Region
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  3. #3
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    The reason I was thinking ABS is because that's what it's mounted to, and won't take out the bumper cover/undertray next time it hits something. Also, ABS vacuum forming looks like a good way to easily make a new one. I'm thinking I might make another ply wood splitter then make a mold and replicate in G-FRP. But ABS vacuum forming appears to be simple and quick.

  4. #4
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    how is your splitter mounted? we use a "L" shaped bracket bolted to transport tie-down locations on the bumper horns, the bottom of which has a slot at the front, opening to the rear, and a pin hole at the back. the splitter plate has mounts which capture the brackets in double shear, so the slotted mount "hole" never has to come undone. use a small bolt for the fixed mount and a 3/8" or so up front. one mount on each side. if you hit something, the rear pin shears and the splitter falls off, most if not completely intact. make it from good plywood covered in a thin layer of GFPR for toughness.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip42 View Post
    how is your splitter mounted? we use a "L" shaped bracket bolted to transport tie-down locations on the bumper horns, the bottom of which has a slot at the front, opening to the rear, and a pin hole at the back. the splitter plate has mounts which capture the brackets in double shear, so the slotted mount "hole" never has to come undone. use a small bolt for the fixed mount and a 3/8" or so up front. one mount on each side. if you hit something, the rear pin shears and the splitter falls off, most if not completely intact. make it from good plywood covered in a thin layer of GFPR for toughness.
    Do you have any pics you'd be willing to share? My methods sound somewhat similar, but I've not yet figured out how accomplish the graceful departure.

    What's GFPR?
    Marty Doane
    ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eagle7 View Post
    Do you have any pics you'd be willing to share? My methods sound somewhat similar, but I've not yet figured out how accomplish the graceful departure.

    What's GFPR?
    shorthand for fiberglass(glass fiber reinforced plastic)

    I have some CAD I could screenshot and post, on car is not possible right now. hard part is a pin with enough strength to hold the splitter and "desired" loads while failing in a collision. also, if you add stays, they have to be able to give way OR allow the movement of the splitter plank.


    the shape is structurally compromised to allow MR2 coolant hose routing, but you can see the top bolt locations which allow this to replace the OEM tie-down hooks, then the forward slot and rear pin-hole - that's 3/8" now and probably doesn't fail as intended (well, not without ancillary damages) but as is it certainly makes installation and removal easier. high hole on the front is to add a stay if needed, like a steel cable X across the radiator to the bumper mounts. the bottom part is pretty universal once you have a place to mount it. I'm happy to help draw or make one if you like.
    Last edited by Chip42; 03-06-2014 at 02:21 PM.

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