Clutch assembly-D15

[Hawkeye]

I am at the point of selecting a clutch assembly for my Honda, 88-91 (D15),for ITB/ITC.
I am searching for opinions, good or bad, on the various clutch manufacturers.

Thank you,
Dave

[downingracing]

I've run the ACT (stage 1) clutch in my D16Z6 and loved it! I ran this clutch for 7+ seasons and only replaced it when I re-shelled the car. The clutch and pressure plate I removed looked great and had plenty of life left. I'm now using the Centerforce clutch (from Jegs) and it just as good (or better, but I can't tell since it works great). No heat issues, no slip...

[tom91ita]

I have had good luck with stock from honda with my 86 crx Si. That said, I came across an aftermarket PP in a parts car that was 1 # lighter and have been using that.

Matt, any weight reduction in the aftermarket ones you have used?

I ink given the low HP of our cars, I'd look to reduce rotating weight if u can.

[OUBob]

Usually the cheapest thing on Ebay. We dont make enough power to wear them out. If you can save a few lbs for $100 or so, Id say do it. If you wanna go cheap, I have a few discs and PPs you can have for shipping. I think they have meat on them, I can mic them. I was just gonna scrap em.

[mossaidis]

I had some warping with my act pressure plate. I went to clutch masters on both plate and 6puck clutch . No problems. Late pedal engagement ie fast shifts

[bonespec]

If you are running a 90+ flywheel, get a OEM clutch for 2001 Civic.

D17 pressure plate has more clamping power, 17-20% IIRC.

Buying new, Centerforce Dual Friction is my choice.

[downingracing]

I never compared the weight of a stock unit against either of the options I've used. I tried to run a 'stock' clutch when I had the quake installed and that didn't work well. It would slip under hard racing conditions. I was guessing that the open stock diff used to eat that and the quaife showed me the next weak link in the process. That led to the ACT stage 1.

[Tom Blaney]

I agree with Matt, the ACT stage 1 is the one I used in my 90 CRX's all with Quaiffe diff's, and the one I recommend to my clients. My second choice would be the Centerforce. They are set em' and forget em' installs.
Good luck

[darthmonkeyIT]

I put in a ACT HD pressure plate when I pulled the trans last August. Just the pressure plate change which is a Exedy OEM PP rebuilt by ACT took off 2#.

The old PP was the "other" Honda supplier aside from Exedy back in the late 80's. The plate had a lot of small diaphragm fingers verse Exedy's 10 or so larger fingers. Weight difference was very noticeable when I had them side by side.

Also went with an ACT stage 1 sprung clutch like Matt. The major difference I have noticed is the pedal feel and throttle response. The ACT racing clutch will be just about as much as an OEM (I saw the ACT clutch for $100 on Amazon; New OEM was $80). You can buy a kit with a HD PP and clutch for ~$320. Most of the expense is in the PP as a new OEM is around $100.

I also had the flywheel resurfaced and balanced with the PP at a local shop. Was around $40 for the surfacing and another $60 for the balancing. How much difference it made I am not sure but the 2# difference and balancing made the engine feel "snappier" from the previous setup. Could also be the awesome trans rebuild from Bone.

[mossaidis]

or losing a few pounds off the flywheel (shrug)...

[darthmonkeyIT]

or losing a few pounds off the flywheel (shrug)...

Well I did ask that if much balancing is needed taking weight off would be preferred. Ultimately I think the machinest had to take off 6 oz to get the balance which is 3/8 of a pound. Not sure how much resurfacing took off but quessing around the same. So maybe round it to 1 pound for the balancing.

[mossaidis]

I am fine with it. To Satisfy others, let's call it "balancing and blueprinting"... LET THE GAMES BEGIN! just kidding.

[Hawkeye]

Thank you to all who responded to my post. Very, very helpful information.
Thank you,
Dave