Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: New ITA Protege Build

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default New ITA Protege Build

    I recently retired my 1st Gen Protege from autocross duty and I'm now in the process of turning it into an ITA car. Here she is in AutoX trim...



    I'm sure I will have plenty of questions as I progress through the build. I've almost finished striping the interior to get ready for the cage install. I'm going to take a very minimalist approach to the build at first as getting the car safe and on track quickly is more important to me right now than building a 100% car. I don't think minimum weight (2325#) is going to be an issue. She was 2230# in autoX Street Prepared trim which requires most of the interior. I do think it will be tough to make competitive HP, but that isn't costing me any sleep at the moment.

    If there are any ITA Protege or Escort GT builders/racers here I would love to pick your brain about a few things.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Always good to see a Solo car become a Club Racing car. Good luck with the build!
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by team-gpracing View Post
    Always good to see a Solo car become a Club Racing car. Good luck with the build!

    The problem is, I still have a nationally prepped Solo car. I swapped all the fast stuff from the Protege to a 2 door 323 hatch. I barely have the budget to keep tires on that thing so this may be the slowest progressing build thread in the history of the forums.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    I doubt that. Progress is progress.
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I've got most of the interior gutted out and I'm working through some of the wiring now. I'm still getting used to the way the GCR is written as it's a little different than the Solo rule book. With regards to the wiring I have a few questions.

    9.3.32 states having two brake lights which is easy enough. It goes on to say
    Turn signals, front parking lights, backup lamps,
    and side marker lights may be taped or painted
    , but it doesn't require them to work.

    9.1.3 10a states
    Wiring specific to any component permitted to be removed,
    or disabled, may be removed
    .

    9.1.3 9c...
    Switches to activate the ignition, the lights, the windshield
    wipers, the starter and other accessories located within the
    passenger compartment may be replaced and their location
    changed
    .

    I'm trying really hard not to read into this too hard. I can't see an allowance for removing wiring going to "auxiliary" lights because there is no allowance to "remove" the switches for those lights...only replace and change location.

    Am I missing something here. I don't want to spend a lot of time sorting through wiring and end up removing something I'm not allowed to.

    I also have a rear window defroster circuit that isn't specifically addressed although it may be in an UD/BD.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Technically speaking, painting over them is disabling them. So, by that logic, you can remove the wires. With regard to switches, I assume all your lights function on one switch. Therefore, if you need to keep your headlights, then you'll need to keep your light switch.

    Defroster wiring should be safe to remove. I thought I remembered seeing something about that somewhere.
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    In the green Honda
    Posts
    449

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XelderX View Post
    but it doesn't require them to work
    And there is your answer. It doesn't say you have to have rear quarterpanels, but you do. That's the point, if it doesn't say you can, then you can't.

    With that said, I'm one of the few cars in my group with working headlights. Hell, my backup lights work. I think on the spare car I just bought, the rear defroster works. Nobody is going to give you grief if your turn signals don't work, but that doesn't make it "legal".

    The difference is, if your lights don't work because you've had the fenders off 5-6 times and you got tired of the wires and cut them, nobody's going to complain. If you're building a car and looking for excuses to remove things, just don't unless it says you can. Again, you're unlikely to be protested, but it's still not cool.
    Jim Hardesty
    ITC 1986 Honda Civic Diablo Rojo Verde
    Never argue your tab at the end of the night. Remember, you're hammered and they’re sober.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    4

    Default

    hi i run a 1999 itb protege with the 1.8 fp motor i have to weigh 2645 a lot more i thought about doing a ita with the fs 2.0 but like you said getting the car to min weight might be a problem.if you have any questions let me know.
    thanks, Scott good luck

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •