Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: New ITA Protege Build

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default New ITA Protege Build

    I recently retired my 1st Gen Protege from autocross duty and I'm now in the process of turning it into an ITA car. Here she is in AutoX trim...



    I'm sure I will have plenty of questions as I progress through the build. I've almost finished striping the interior to get ready for the cage install. I'm going to take a very minimalist approach to the build at first as getting the car safe and on track quickly is more important to me right now than building a 100% car. I don't think minimum weight (2325#) is going to be an issue. She was 2230# in autoX Street Prepared trim which requires most of the interior. I do think it will be tough to make competitive HP, but that isn't costing me any sleep at the moment.

    If there are any ITA Protege or Escort GT builders/racers here I would love to pick your brain about a few things.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Always good to see a Solo car become a Club Racing car. Good luck with the build!
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by team-gpracing View Post
    Always good to see a Solo car become a Club Racing car. Good luck with the build!

    The problem is, I still have a nationally prepped Solo car. I swapped all the fast stuff from the Protege to a 2 door 323 hatch. I barely have the budget to keep tires on that thing so this may be the slowest progressing build thread in the history of the forums.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    I doubt that. Progress is progress.
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I've got most of the interior gutted out and I'm working through some of the wiring now. I'm still getting used to the way the GCR is written as it's a little different than the Solo rule book. With regards to the wiring I have a few questions.

    9.3.32 states having two brake lights which is easy enough. It goes on to say
    Turn signals, front parking lights, backup lamps,
    and side marker lights may be taped or painted
    , but it doesn't require them to work.

    9.1.3 10a states
    Wiring specific to any component permitted to be removed,
    or disabled, may be removed
    .

    9.1.3 9c...
    Switches to activate the ignition, the lights, the windshield
    wipers, the starter and other accessories located within the
    passenger compartment may be replaced and their location
    changed
    .

    I'm trying really hard not to read into this too hard. I can't see an allowance for removing wiring going to "auxiliary" lights because there is no allowance to "remove" the switches for those lights...only replace and change location.

    Am I missing something here. I don't want to spend a lot of time sorting through wiring and end up removing something I'm not allowed to.

    I also have a rear window defroster circuit that isn't specifically addressed although it may be in an UD/BD.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Technically speaking, painting over them is disabling them. So, by that logic, you can remove the wires. With regard to switches, I assume all your lights function on one switch. Therefore, if you need to keep your headlights, then you'll need to keep your light switch.

    Defroster wiring should be safe to remove. I thought I remembered seeing something about that somewhere.
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by team-gpracing View Post
    Technically speaking, painting over them is disabling them. So, by that logic, you can remove the wires. With regard to switches, I assume all your lights function on one switch. Therefore, if you need to keep your headlights, then you'll need to keep your light switch.

    Defroster wiring should be safe to remove. I thought I remembered seeing something about that somewhere.
    Thanks. That does make sense. I've had my wrist slapped over some gray areas in the Solo rule book before so I'm making sure I don't cause more work for myself later. Now off to finish pulling the harness out of the car and find some dry ice for the sound deadening.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,361

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by team-gpracing View Post
    Technically speaking, painting over them is disabling them. So, by that logic, you can remove the wires.
    Um, no.

    Not being able to see that they illuminate, does not mean they don't illuminate. "Tree falls in the forest" and all that.
    Not my circus...not my monkeys...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Amy View Post
    Um, no.

    Not being able to see that they illuminate, does not mean they don't illuminate. "Tree falls in the forest" and all that.

    I haven't looked in a lot of IT cars, but I don't recall seeing any switches to activate turn signals. If everything holds true then those would be required as well.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,361

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XelderX View Post
    I haven't looked in a lot of IT cars, but I don't recall seeing any switches to activate turn signals. If everything holds true then those would be required as well.
    You are correct.
    Not my circus...not my monkeys...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Cool. Less work.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Greg, I'm not trying to pick a fight, especially since I don't know the IT rules as well as most around here, but that doesn't make sense to me.

    disable

    — vb
    1. to make ineffective, unfit, or incapable, as by crippling
    2. to make or pronounce legally incapable
    3. to switch off (an electronic device)

    By painting over the lights, they are rendered ineffective, and are thereby disabled. At least that's my understanding.


    With regard to the light switches/turn signal indicator/wipers, it says that you may replace or relocate them, it doesn't say anything about removing them entirely.

    I don't need any of that crap in my car!
    '77 Mazda RX-3
    NER SCCA E-Prod

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,361

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by team-gpracing View Post
    By painting over the lights, they are rendered ineffective, and are thereby disabled.
    $25 and a lengthy debate with an SCCA technical scrutineer in the tech shed should verify your thesis...
    Not my circus...not my monkeys...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    raymond NH
    Posts
    623

    Default

    All exposed lites shall be taped over. Duct tape of any color is legal and asked for. How does this not render the lite Disabled, Ineffective by your definition.


    Tree falls in the woods and all.


    Just race the car,
    All posts are made by a fat old guy with a crappy old car that isnt supported by a factory anymore and therefore should not be taken seriously, EVER

    We buy our tires at WalMart 205/50-15 NT-01 $148.00 last all season and go faster as they wear out........

    Driver Skills Development, 7's Racing Skunk Works
    it7racing.com

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    7,361

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dano77 View Post
    Duct tape of any color is legal and asked for. How does this not render the lite Disabled, Ineffective by your definition.
    Was this for me, Dan?

    Note that tape is not required ("may be taped or painted"). Nor, if you choose to use it, does it require opaque tape. Ergo, if the definition of "disabled" mean you can't actually see them illuminate, then we've created a different set of scrutineering standards for cars that neither need, nor choose to, cover their lamps with opaque tape.

    Further, what happens if said opaque tape were to become dislodged during the course of the event? Does the prep allowance/requirement suddenly change in the middle of the race?

    Covering illuminating lamps does not "disable" them, it simply moots their purpose. They still illuminate.

    And this is how we get rules intorturated...and why we can't have nice things.

    "Just race the car".

    - GA
    Not my circus...not my monkeys...

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    raymond NH
    Posts
    623

    Default

    Wasent for you Greg. Wasent really directed at anyone, Just a statement that we are over thinking everything way to f..ing much lately. Its just supposed to be fun. Isnt it?

    Dan Sheppard
    77 IT7

    We have cars available for anyone looking to enjoy a race weekend without rules intorturation.
    All posts are made by a fat old guy with a crappy old car that isnt supported by a factory anymore and therefore should not be taken seriously, EVER

    We buy our tires at WalMart 205/50-15 NT-01 $148.00 last all season and go faster as they wear out........

    Driver Skills Development, 7's Racing Skunk Works
    it7racing.com

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    CT/NY/NJ
    Posts
    1,157

    Default

    welcome and good luck!!

    IT is a fun, good place to be... I tried to leave once and came right back
    Chris Rallo "the kid"
    -- "wrenching and racing" -- "will race for food!" -- "Onward and Upward"

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    High Point, NC
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CRallo View Post
    welcome and good luck!!

    IT is a fun, good place to be... I tried to leave once and came right back

    Thanks. The car is currently at the fab shop to start getting the cage installed/interior painted, so not much to update. I'll post some pictures as soon as they get some progress made there.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    6

    Default

    I didn't realize that this was the fate of the purple people eater (or, if I did, then I had forgotten)! Can't wait to have you in ITA Justin. ITA is growing with the addition of several NC autocrossers!
    Morgan Mehler
    NC Region
    ITA/SM '91 Miata
    ITB '84 GTI - The Brick - FOR SALE

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    In the green Honda
    Posts
    449

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XelderX View Post
    but it doesn't require them to work
    And there is your answer. It doesn't say you have to have rear quarterpanels, but you do. That's the point, if it doesn't say you can, then you can't.

    With that said, I'm one of the few cars in my group with working headlights. Hell, my backup lights work. I think on the spare car I just bought, the rear defroster works. Nobody is going to give you grief if your turn signals don't work, but that doesn't make it "legal".

    The difference is, if your lights don't work because you've had the fenders off 5-6 times and you got tired of the wires and cut them, nobody's going to complain. If you're building a car and looking for excuses to remove things, just don't unless it says you can. Again, you're unlikely to be protested, but it's still not cool.
    Jim Hardesty
    ITC 1986 Honda Civic Diablo Rojo Verde
    Never argue your tab at the end of the night. Remember, you're hammered and they’re sober.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •