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Thread: BFG R1 vs R1S?

  1. #1
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    Default BFG R1 vs R1S?

    Has anyone compared the R1S tread compound with the R1? Grip level, overheating, heat cycles, tread wear, feel, etc. I've been using R1 for several years and love the extended life over the purple crack.
    Marty Doane
    ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
    2016 Winnebago Journey (home)

  2. #2
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    Been thwartd both times I ran them this year, first with a hub failure at VIR and then with a wreck 12 laps or so in at Roebling.

    Initial impressions on the R1-S: the "bleed out" of the mold stuff is way worse than Hoosiers. First lap must be gentle.

    After that, I'd say same or even better grip, confidence, etc. than the R6. I didn't overheat them at Roebling and I drove them hard. NOt sure about longetivity yet but I will continue the experiment at the SIC, and possibly the ARRC (not sure if the gearing works there with the slow corner onto hte back straight).
    NC Region
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  3. #3
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    Grip level is better than the R1, but I can't say a whole lot else yet..
    I bought a set of takeoffs a few months ago and stuck them on the car right before the COTA race.
    Had some weird handling issues and was scratching my head when the local BFG guy asked me why I had 3 R1S on the car and one R1 on the right rear. Hmmm might explain why the car was only loose in left turns!

    Anyway, I switched back to another full set of R1 and the grip level was less, but not by a huge amount.

    Laps times between the R1 and purple crack R6 are 'only' about 0.5sec. The R6 feel much more stable and have more linear breakaway in turns, but the R1 is faster on the straights- I'm guessing due to lower rolling resistance.

    Not exactly the answer you were looking for, but yes- the R1S has a noticeable- not not dramatic- increase in grip.
    Houston Region
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  4. #4
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    I LOVE the R1S but have not run the R1. I run them on my T4 Mustang and they work wonders. Now the Mustang weighs in at 3450 so its quite heavy for the tires too. I can usually get a race and qualifying session in before I need to replace them. Talking with the engineer's from BFG..there is no need to heat cycle them before using. Just scrub them in for about a lap and then go. They hold up really well and are consistant thru a race. If they start getting too hot..you will know it. Back off for about a lap or so and then right back to it.
    Greg Vandersluis
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  5. #5
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    Default

    What 15" sizes are available?

  6. #6
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    Demetrius Mossaidis aka 'Mickey' #12 ITA NESCCA
    '92 Honda Civic Si
    STFU and "Then write a letter. www.crbscca.com"
    2013 ITA NARRC Champion and I have not raced since.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ITA_honda View Post
    I can usually get a race and qualifying session in before I need to replace them.
    How long does an R6 last in relation to that?
    I've run a set of R1 for probably 12 hours and easily 15-20 heat cycles, and there's still plenty of rubber left- albeit getting slower..
    Houston Region
    STU Nissan 240SX
    EProd RX7

  8. #8
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    I run R1 and really like it. They did get a little oily if I over forced them but managed enough hold for me to be satisfied even in the teenagers regarding HC's.

  9. #9
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    Thought I would resurrect this thread to see if anyone has new results or experiences. I am especially interested in the wear of the R1 vs R1S and if lighter FWD cars have any trouble getting sufficient temperature in the R1.

  10. #10
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    Been using R1 for several years. Just had my first weekend with R1S. LOVE that tire. Much better grip and easier to drive at the limit than the R1. Took over 1 second off my 1:33 time from last year. Don't know anything about longevity yet.
    Marty Doane
    ITS RX-7 #13 (sold)
    2016 Winnebago Journey (home)

  11. #11
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    Thanks Marty. A slammin deal in a set of R1 made it a moot point for now but makes me want to try the S for the next set.

  12. #12
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    After winning a couple Majors races this year on the R1 (all the fast guys broke. HA!), I ordered up a set of R1S. They lasted me two weekends before cording whereas I still have some of the R1 I bought two years ago with 8+ weekends on them. They're getting slow and hard from cycles, but they still have rubber on them. The R1S is definitely faster, but they wore like an R6.
    Houston Region
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffYoung View Post
    Been thwartd both times I ran them this year, first with a hub failure at VIR and then with a wreck 12 laps or so in at Roebling.

    Initial impressions on the R1-S: the "bleed out" of the mold stuff is way worse than Hoosiers. First lap must be gentle.

    After that, I'd say same or even better grip, confidence, etc. than the R6. I didn't overheat them at Roebling and I drove them hard. NOt sure about longetivity yet but I will continue the experiment at the SIC, and possibly the ARRC (not sure if the gearing works there with the slow corner onto hte back straight).
    There is no "bleed out of the mold stuff" BFG does not use a mold release agent on their R1 and R1S tires, they use teflon molds.

    My data consistently shows the R1S provides .05-.10 higher lateral G vs the Hoosier A6.

  14. #14
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    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by ITA_honda View Post
    I LOVE the R1S but have not run the R1. I run them on my T4 Mustang and they work wonders. Now the Mustang weighs in at 3450 so its quite heavy for the tires too. I can usually get a race and qualifying session in before I need to replace them. Talking with the engineer's from BFG..there is no need to heat cycle them before using. Just scrub them in for about a lap and then go. They hold up really well and are consistant thru a race. If they start getting too hot..you will know it. Back off for about a lap or so and then right back to it.
    My experience with HooHoos is if you cook them, you have to back off for lat least a half a lap. With the BFg, they come back within3-4 turns. Not to mention they are more resistant to overheating to begin with.

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