Oil coolers, what are you using??

[StephenB]

Steve, I know you have a ton of experience with these so thanks for jumping in.

I have around 210 for water temps and I am seeing close to 250 for oil temps.

That seems pretty high to me. I have swapped out the oil coolers with a second set of stock ones, including all the lines just to see if that made any difference. I am not using one of those racing beat adaptor things near the oil filter I purchased an adaptor from autometer and I am getting my temps from the sender on the side of the block down below the air intake towards the very bottom. I also swapped out the autometer sender just to check to see if it was reading wrong.

[seckerich]

230 - 235 is normal in the summer but 250 is a little high. I would check the air/fuel ratio and see if it is a little on the lean side. Most of the temp from oil is from the spray on the inside rotor faces so combustion temp is a big factor.

I always pick up my temps at the filter to see what the motor is being fed, but you should be close. Shoot the coolers with a heat gun to see what temp they have when it is hot. I would want to see that both coolers are getting the same circulation and not bypassing.

Are the coolers sealed to the nose opening?

[StephenB]

great idea on checking the temps of each. I had the factory shrouds before but I also had my break ducts in the foglights. I am going to remove those from that spot and duct that entire opening to them and seal them. I think that will work much better with a lot more airflow going to them. The ducts can easily fit in the bottom area. I know the mazdaspeed bumper has nice huge openings for the coolers so I think I need to take advantage of that entire opening.

Do you think my temps are higher because of where I have the sender located?

Stephen

[Dano77]

I have the Oil Filter adapter if you want one. Im getting 235-240 oil temps on my car with the giant first gen cooler mounted under the radiator.

V3.0 will have a first gen cooler in front of an ISC giant radiator with an ISC front airdam sealed up. Everything should be cooler with that and some actual carb tuning to richen it up.

Dan
70,77,79 IT7

Yes I have 3 of them, wanna try one?

[seckerich]

great idea on checking the temps of each. I had the factory shrouds before but I also had my break ducts in the foglights. I am going to remove those from that spot and duct that entire opening to them and seal them. I think that will work much better with a lot more airflow going to them. The ducts can easily fit in the bottom area. I know the mazdaspeed bumper has nice huge openings for the coolers so I think I need to take advantage of that entire opening.

Do you think my temps are higher because of where I have the sender located?

Stephen

Let me check and see if I still have some of the custom plates I made for under the filter area. We made some with less restriction than most on the market. Problem with the RX8 is you are in the 9000+ range far more than the 7 motors. PM me if you want with a phone number and I will give you a call with a few things to look at.

Do not overlook pulling brake duct air from the sealed area in front of the radiator. Also check the area behind the coolers as pressure inside the fender wells will actually push back the airflow.

[JIgou]

Sounds like you're maybe starting down an alternate path, but we're using a Fluidyne on our BMW:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fld-db-30417

Jarrod

[tim240z]

Honestly... I was a bit nervous at first but this is what we have on our car and have had ZERO problems with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-ROW-10AN-...8e652e&vxp=mtr