Thanks for the 411 Dave. While we are set for now it's good to know there is a source for these again.
Thanks for the 411 Dave. While we are set for now it's good to know there is a source for these again.
Chris Carey
Central Florida Region
ITS/Vintage Datsun 240Z
Favorite tool to remove undercoating---- A curb!
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."
good to know
I had a guy re-line some , by making new steel liners boring out the aluminum drums to get the old steel out and shrinking the new liners in
He was charging about $200 ea. to do it , so there are a pretty good deal.
not as cheap as-ebay but not far off, I hav been paying at least $100 a pair thru e-bay
do you guys use up as fast as i do ? I sometimes can only get 3 races out of them before they start making blue hot spots then they crack right in the middle of the spots soon after they form
Chris Plucker
280z
We haven't had any sort of problem like that. We've run either Porterfield or Carbotech shoes, and are getting a full season of enduros (5-6 1.5 hour races + qual and practices) out of a set of drums before we remove them and have them turned, but have yet to have a complete failure on a drum. All of our drums are O.E. older parts. If you're in a 280, I'm sure the extra weight of the chassis would be harder on various components of your brake system, and if I remember right the rear brakes on a 280 use a different wheel cylinder, and attach a little differently. Maybe it's a bit more efficient than a 240's, and you are getting better braking/generating more heat on of your drums than we are. I know we struggle to get our shoes to wear evenly, with them commonly wearing significantly more on the inner 2/3rds of the crescent.
Chris Carey
Central Florida Region
ITS/Vintage Datsun 240Z
Favorite tool to remove undercoating---- A curb!
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Well, I got my new drums on Saturday, and put them on the new race car on Sunday. These are a really nice fit. I can't tell the difference between the new ones and the one set of old ones I have left. They appear to be the real deal.
David Plott
Atlanta Region #289721
#54 1973 Datsun 240Z
Mount Juliet, TN
It looks like Motorsport Auto may be buying from the same source. They are taking preorders on aluminum drums for the same pricing as Datsunparts.com. Here's the link:
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5051
David Plott
Atlanta Region #289721
#54 1973 Datsun 240Z
Mount Juliet, TN
The 1977-78 280Z uses a different rear brake configuration (backing plate, wheel cyl, shoes, etc.) but the drums are the same. I discovered that when I ordered new shoes for my 75 280Z and discovered that they wouldn't fit because the PO changed over to the 77-78 setup.
Chuck
Chuck
1972 ITS Datsun 240Z #0
1975 ITS Datsun 280Z #0
That's correct. The later model wheel cylinder has 2 pistons and pushes both shoes. The earlier Z''s wheel cylinder had a single piston, and pushed on the one active shoe, tightening the static shoe as it got tighter. The later setup will give you better braking, which we are sorely lacking compared to our competitors with 4 wheel disks.
David Plott
Atlanta Region #289721
#54 1973 Datsun 240Z
Mount Juliet, TN
2 pistons might work a bit better, but still does not work good.
my extra 200 lbs I am sure does not help the situation. My fronts seem to work good with 2 3" duct, but I really have a problem with the rear drums.
I am excited that we can buy drums again, I was tired of bidding on used drums on e-bay.
Thanks
Plucker
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