I use a ball & socket flange type connection. If used with coil springs on the bolts it will seall well enough for a race car and still have the flex requied.
Link to one supplier I've used.
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...7abd384ed750cc
I use a ball & socket flange type connection. If used with coil springs on the bolts it will seall well enough for a race car and still have the flex requied.
Link to one supplier I've used.
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...7abd384ed750cc
1988 ITA Scriocco 16V #80
MCSCC member since 1988
I used a similar style a while back (I think it was an older Chrysler type??) that used a graphite donut to seal against a flared flange. it worked great till the graphite donut wore out, then the springs got loose and it was a rattly noisy mess. an all-metal one looks better, but I might just give the slip-fit a try this time. it's the cheapest and easiest solution since I can pick the parts just up the street.
If I can ever get the paperwork done for the alternate engine I want in STU, I'll be going to a 3" exhaust anyway, so this one won't be in there terribly long...
Thanks for the advice, gents!
Houston Region
STU Nissan 240SX
EProd RX7
Matt:
Why are you over-thinking a fix for your exhaust system? After all, it only failed when you asked it to act as a motor mount. Just replace your engine mounts & replace your busted flex tube w/a new one. And for God's sake, don't even THINK about using that JC Whitney flex tubing!!! If you don't believe Andy, just pick up any HS Physics 101 textbook.
not trying to overthink it, just trying to find something a bit more reliable. the braided flex sections don't have a great history in my experience (not just my car), so I was looking for something a bit more robust without losing any more power.
still haven't bothered to fix it. next race isn't until december thanks to cancelled races in Oct and the no-start race in Nov..
Houston Region
STU Nissan 240SX
EProd RX7
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