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Thread: Brake Ducts

  1. #1
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    Default Brake Ducts

    So I am having a terrible time making my braking ducts route in a place that doesn't get hit by the front tire at full lock one way or the other. at $80+ bucks a set I would love to figure out how to accomplish the ducting without ripping apart!

    Please post up pictures and ideas of what you have done!

    Thanks,
    Stephen

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by StephenB View Post
    So I am having a terrible time making my braking ducts route in a place that doesn't get hit by the front tire at full lock one way or the other. at $80+ bucks a set I would love to figure out how to accomplish the ducting without ripping apart!

    Please post up pictures and ideas of what you have done!

    Thanks,
    Stephen
    What do the Grand Am teams do with the RX8s??
    Jeff L

    ITA Miata



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    Quote Originally Posted by JLawton View Post
    What do the Grand Am teams do with the RX8s??
    the rolex cars are tube frames so not much help there. there were a few in continental a while back

    Stephen, have you looked into "crushed pipe" setups? some people sell molded plastic in specific fitments, but the basic idea is a squished cross section of roughly the same hydraulic diameter as the hose which tapers back to 2.5 or 3" diameter (whatever hose size you use). you bolt it to the inner fender wall.

    I've seen pictures before, but I can't find any now.

  4. #4
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    Something like this:







    Last edited by SPiFF; 05-26-2012 at 11:34 AM.

  5. #5
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    As Spiff and Chip say, you'll likely need a custom area, of something solid, where the tire encroaches on the chassis.
    You might have to go high, or low. ANd your resulting 'tube' might be shaped pretty weird. Maybe it's a flattened oval, or even some wedgy/triangle cross section.

    I might start by getting a bunch of (don't laugh) gutter downspout parts, elbows, straight sections, adapters and the like, and then I'd mock up the fitment. You can crush and reform those easily and come up with a shape that fits. Then you fab something more permanent with round ends and brackets out of carbon or FG, or alum or whatever, bolt to the chassis, and attach the flex tubes at one, or both ends.

    If you decide to go solid all the way to the front air dam, make it multi piece with one sliding into another as you will inevitably move the nose and you don't want to destroy everything in a mild bumping situation. Flex duct is better, if you have the real estate.
    Jake Gulick


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  6. #6
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    What's full lock?

    If it's only a problem at full lock, don't turn that far. Put some stops on the rack if you can't remember not turn turn it that far.
    Tim

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip42 View Post
    the rolex cars are tube frames so not much help there. there were a few in continental a while back

    Stephen, have you looked into "crushed pipe" setups? some people sell molded plastic in specific fitments, but the basic idea is a squished cross section of roughly the same hydraulic diameter as the hose which tapers back to 2.5 or 3" diameter (whatever hose size you use). you bolt it to the inner fender wall.

    I've seen pictures before, but I can't find any now.
    Jeff was referring to Grand-AM Continental ST Rx8's. As in the car that Stephen parted out to build his and the Riley Racing Rx8 that won the SPEED wow moment of the whole weekend world wide during the NJMP CTSSC race that was televised today from a couple weeks ago...

    Quote Originally Posted by tderonne View Post
    What's full lock?

    If it's only a problem at full lock, don't turn that far. Put some stops on the rack if you can't remember not turn turn it that far.
    THIS. is the case more often than you'd think, even on "real" racecars, even NASCAR Sprint Cup. Both of those cars I've driven and care for you have to be careful with that and they came to us that way from top builders.
    Last edited by CRallo; 05-26-2012 at 09:43 PM.
    Chris Rallo "the kid"
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  8. #8
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    Thanks for the tips! I will default tackle this in an entirely current way than I previously thought!

    I never did ask the Riley guys how they did out as I was dealing with other issues. I did talk to them quit a bit at njmp. And by the way even after that hit they probably could have finished. Very minimal damage other than a bent tierod!

    Stephen

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    Quote Originally Posted by CRallo View Post
    Jeff was referring to Grand-AM Continental ST Rx8's. As in the car that Stephen parted out to build his and the Riley Racing Rx8 that won the SPEED wow moment of the whole weekend world wide during the NJMP CTSSC race that was televised today from a couple weeks ago...



    .
    Yup, that's what i was talking about.
    Jeff L

    ITA Miata



    2010 NARRC Champion

    2007 NERRC Championship, 2nd place
    2008 NARRC Championship, 2nd place
    2009 NARRC Championship, 2nd place

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPiFF View Post
    Something like this:
    Zsolt, any idea on the pricing of those parts? Looks like they could be easily adapted to the DC2. - GA

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRallo View Post
    Jeff was referring to Grand-AM Continental ST Rx8's. As in the car that Stephen parted out to build his and the Riley Racing Rx8 that won the SPEED wow moment of the whole weekend world wide during the NJMP CTSSC race that was televised today from a couple weeks ago...
    yup, watched the race yesterday on speed and said "oh, well I guess they are still out there..." my mistake. hope Riley Bros. get it fixed up. helluva ride he took there.

    @tGA, check with HPD on those brake duct parts, they were on display at PRI. given the mcstrut vs. SLA on your/Z's teg and a lot of other changes, I tend to doubt that it's worth trying to retrofit vs. making your own based on the design.

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