Built my own little ballast system

[CRallo]

one failure point sucks.

a spear sucks.

sucks is a very technical term, btw.

I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.

[smbstyle]

one failure point sucks.

a spear sucks.

sucks is a very technical term, btw.

I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.

Hm, i like that idea. basically follow the typical ballast setup, but instead of drilling through the thin floor to mount them, mount to the plate?

btw, what kind of weights do you all suggest using?

[smbstyle]

Or how about this; the weights I was thinking about using have holes on either side to grab. What about running a 3/4" bolt though each sideto down to the base plate, and then a 1/8" steel plate across the top that the center pole and two side bolts go through? Might be easier to take a pic of what im describing

[coreyehcx]

one failure point sucks.

a spear sucks.

sucks is a very technical term, btw.

I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.

I was thinking more of your seat bracket plate design like you have done. Just add a thicker plate instead of the scary spear...

You can add additional plates with longer bolts in 4 points, remaining flat with no spear and still removable like a seat.

[benspeed]

I like it. Marc cefalo had something like that in an ITR s2000. I don't think it presents an obstacle to exit at all recognizing you will trim down the post.

I have to run 150 pounds in my 968 and made a bunch of holes in the floor to double bolt my weight and wish I had come up with a product like yours. Plus I am always changing weight based on the wheels I run or the scales at different tracks being up to 40 pounds different.

The strength of using the factory seat mounts will be superior to drilling the floor.

[smbstyle]

Yeah, i probably shouldnt have posted the picture as is. The "spear" will be cut down considerably once the height of the weights is measured, which will be about 6 inches right now, and wont be any different than a long bolt.



Here is the style weight I'm planning on using, and with the open grip areas on each side, I will have a 2" x 12" 1/4" piece of steel going across the top of all of the weights with a hole in the center to go through the center pole and a hole on both outer edges to run a bolt through the openings of the weights and down through the base plate, using either 1/2" or 3/4" bolts on either side. The total height of everything will be approx. 6" considering the height of each weight when flat. Or, I can even run 2 bolts on each side, and have two 2" x 12" pieces of steel going across on either side of the center pole. Either way, I will be eliminating the issue of a single failure point.

[TStiles]

Here's a system that Drago sells :

http://mazdaracers.com/store/product/57-ballast-system/

I just use the ballast plates left over from my Spec Racer Ford. Bolts to the floorpan with a big backup plate. I guess I'm going to need to figure out something else when / if I build an STL motor and the weight goes up

[CRallo]

Here's a system that Drago sells :

http://mazdaracers.com/store/product/57-ballast-system/

I just use the ballast plates left over from my Spec Racer Ford. Bolts to the floorpan with a big backup plate. I guess I'm going to need to figure out something else when / if I build an STL motor and the weight goes up

nice looking setup. smart on there part to offer the weights too and design it so you have to or should buy theirs. Dunno what weight costs... 22 a weight seems steep though and THEN you have to ship it. ALways pros and cons... I'd like to see a better pic, but I AM impressed at first glance.

Anyone use this?

[coreyehcx]

That is a nice piece, but an easily fabbed piece?

[smbstyle]

check out this site for pre-drilled steel plates - specifically the 12"x12" plates in different thicknesses with 4 holes that could be used for running bolts through; comes in all shapes and sizes. Seems like this could be a good setup for a ballast system utilizing a base plate integrated into the OEM passenger seat location.

http://www.metalplatesource.com/inde...q0h2n2bb8anmv7

[loopracing]

I don't like the long threaded rod protruding, waiting to impale something/someone. On mine i have the same baseplate, but have drilled and tapped holes in it to bolt on additional plate(s). Just as fast to change ballast and a lot more compact.

[smbstyle]

I'm about to delete that first picture i posted, i should have waited until I cut it to the appropriate length of the weights... jeebus. It will be no different than a long bolt when all is said and done; it will be cut so there is nothing sticking up and protruding out once I have the height of the weights measured.

I have also changed the design a little bit and I will have a 1/4" steel plate on top with a center hole for the 1" rod, and then a 1/2" hole on each corner of the square plate (4 total) where I will run a 1/2" bolt down through the bottom of the plate. These 1/2" bolts will run through the grip holes in the weights. The top plate and bottom plate with the 1" bolt in the center and 1/2" bolts on either corner going through will secure the weights in place and eliminate the issue of a single failure point. I'll post up some more pics later this week as I get everything cut and drilled.

[Z3_GoCar]

Here's a system that Drago sells :

http://mazdaracers.com/store/product/57-ballast-system/

I just use the ballast plates left over from my Spec Racer Ford. Bolts to the floorpan with a big backup plate. I guess I'm going to need to figure out something else when / if I build an STL motor and the weight goes up

Brings up a good point on all the added weight to rear wheel drive cars in STL. I think you'll see a movement to a regional version of STL with a lower weight for rear wheel drive cars....