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Thread: Built my own little ballast system

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  1. #1
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    Are you sure you want that big rod sticking up in the passenger side if you need to get out in a hurry and want to use the passenger door?
    Jim Hardesty
    ITC 1986 Honda Civic Diablo Rojo Verde
    Never argue your tab at the end of the night. Remember, you're hammered and they’re sober.

  2. #2
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    Thanks man, that gives me a good idea to go off for my 140lbs I need to add for STL.
    CFR STL #59 Civic

    www.circuit-racer.com

  3. #3
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    There's a bunch of things about this I'm not thrilled by from a design standpoint. I'd personally rather be able to locate the weight to my best advantage, and dislike the single point of failure design shown. ~90lbs is a lot of force at the regular g loading the car will see. at impact loads it's scary. plus, like Jim said, it's in the way. IT rules require a minimum of 2, 1/2" diameter bolts. I think there's a good reason for it, even if it's not required in ST. just my $0.02.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip42 View Post
    There's a bunch of things about this I'm not thrilled by from a design standpoint. I'd personally rather be able to locate the weight to my best advantage, and dislike the single point of failure design shown. ~90lbs is a lot of force at the regular g loading the car will see. at impact loads it's scary. plus, like Jim said, it's in the way. IT rules require a minimum of 2, 1/2" diameter bolts. I think there's a good reason for it, even if it's not required in ST. just my $0.02.
    Chip,

    Do you have any suggestions for changing/modifying this ballast system, or a ballast system that doesn't drilling a bunch of holes into the floorboard? I figured I'd get praises for this system after one the tech inspectors even recommended it to me after seeing it on another STL car...

    How about the idea of running a bolt or two directly though the weight plates and down through the base plate?
    Last edited by smbstyle; 04-13-2012 at 05:40 PM.
    STL Miata - 90 NA w/ 99 motor swap

  5. #5
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    one failure point sucks.

    a spear sucks.

    sucks is a very technical term, btw.

    I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.
    Chris Rallo "the kid"
    -- "wrenching and racing" -- "will race for food!" -- "Onward and Upward"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRallo View Post
    one failure point sucks.

    a spear sucks.

    sucks is a very technical term, btw.

    I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.
    Hm, i like that idea. basically follow the typical ballast setup, but instead of drilling through the thin floor to mount them, mount to the plate?

    btw, what kind of weights do you all suggest using?
    STL Miata - 90 NA w/ 99 motor swap

  7. #7
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    Or how about this; the weights I was thinking about using have holes on either side to grab. What about running a 3/4" bolt though each sideto down to the base plate, and then a 1/8" steel plate across the top that the center pole and two side bolts go through? Might be easier to take a pic of what im describing
    STL Miata - 90 NA w/ 99 motor swap

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRallo View Post
    one failure point sucks.

    a spear sucks.

    sucks is a very technical term, btw.

    I would skip the spear, build a plate like that and use the traditional bolts and washers to attach the weight to it.
    I was thinking more of your seat bracket plate design like you have done. Just add a thicker plate instead of the scary spear...

    You can add additional plates with longer bolts in 4 points, remaining flat with no spear and still removable like a seat.
    CFR STL #59 Civic

    www.circuit-racer.com

  9. #9
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    I like it. Marc cefalo had something like that in an ITR s2000. I don't think it presents an obstacle to exit at all recognizing you will trim down the post.

    I have to run 150 pounds in my 968 and made a bunch of holes in the floor to double bolt my weight and wish I had come up with a product like yours. Plus I am always changing weight based on the wheels I run or the scales at different tracks being up to 40 pounds different.

    The strength of using the factory seat mounts will be superior to drilling the floor.
    BenSpeed
    #33 ITR Porsche 968
    BigSpeed Racing
    2013 ITR Pro IT Champion
    2014 NE Division ITR Champion

  10. #10
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    Yeah, i probably shouldnt have posted the picture as is. The "spear" will be cut down considerably once the height of the weights is measured, which will be about 6 inches right now, and wont be any different than a long bolt.



    Here is the style weight I'm planning on using, and with the open grip areas on each side, I will have a 2" x 12" 1/4" piece of steel going across the top of all of the weights with a hole in the center to go through the center pole and a hole on both outer edges to run a bolt through the openings of the weights and down through the base plate, using either 1/2" or 3/4" bolts on either side. The total height of everything will be approx. 6" considering the height of each weight when flat. Or, I can even run 2 bolts on each side, and have two 2" x 12" pieces of steel going across on either side of the center pole. Either way, I will be eliminating the issue of a single failure point.
    Last edited by smbstyle; 04-14-2012 at 10:08 AM.
    STL Miata - 90 NA w/ 99 motor swap

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumbojimbo View Post
    Are you sure you want that big rod sticking up in the passenger side if you need to get out in a hurry and want to use the passenger door?
    It's going to be trimmed down a bit once I see how high the weights come up. If I can get past the the halo seat and center net, I don't see this as being an obstacle. Plus, don't a lot of cars have a diagonal brace going from the main hoop down to the passenger side footwell mount of the cage, that would cut across any exit path the driver would have? And those seem to be a popular cage design for a Miata?
    Last edited by smbstyle; 04-13-2012 at 05:41 PM.
    STL Miata - 90 NA w/ 99 motor swap

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