Honda CRX Si Brake Woes

[chuck baader]

Went through everything you did and finally replaced the brake booster...been fine ever since. Chuck

[mossaidis]

Went through everything you did and finally replaced the brake booster...been fine ever since. Chuck

Ditto on my EG

[JLawton]

I would replace calipers if you still have problems after replacing booster. And absolutely change rotors to fresh ones. I've cooker rotors on my truck where even new pads didn't work. No need to go to all that fancy treatments though. The car is light enough that the problem is somewhere else

[Greg Amy]

Ditto on my EG

Ditto on my DC2/5.

[tom_sprecher]

Ditto on my IT7.

[Chip42]

definately replace the booster and rotors, don't try to diagnose any more until you have done so and have seen if it worked. car parts don't always play by the rules.

Also check to see that the rear caliper pistons are turned out to minimize the gap between the pads and rotor when sitting. just turn them counterclockwise in 180 degree increments and test fit, stop and go back one when you cant get them over the rotor. lots of sloppy brakes start here.

[R2 Racing]

Ditto on my DA. Brakes got worse and worse over a year, threw parts at it. Finally after replacing the booster AND getting it adjusted properly, did my brakes finally work well again. If you were at the 2010 ARRC, you remember my battle, which resulted in a DNS.

[lateapex911]

First thing I thought of, when reading your list was "the booster". They are funny beasts. And even if it's NOT the booster, at this point in it's life, it's a liability, and should be replaced.

One way to tell if it's the calipers or drum cylinders (if equipped) is to take the lines off and screw on 'caps". Eliminate them from the equation. IF things get solid, attach them one at a time, and you'll find your issue.

If it's still soft, then unscrew the lines from the master cyl, and block it's openings. If it gets solid, you have issues in the lines, prop valve, or dist blocks.

Since you've done so much sleuthing, I might just start straight away by plugging the MC lines to eliminate the whole system downstream to prove it's in the MC booster system.

If it's still soft, then it's in the master, or the booster.