Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: Mazda RX-7 Build Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default Mazda RX-7 Build Questions

    I am considering buying a caged 1st gen shell with a logbook to either put back to IT7 or ITA.

    I have some concerns though, primarily how much work and money I'll really be spending to do this.

    I put together a list of what I think I need, I still need to go see the car and he said he will throw in as much as he can. This list does not really include a legitimate engine build as I don't know how much to expect or what condition an engine I'd be getting would be in, I do know the seller is a huge rotary guy though and said he can help with a build.

    Race car: $350.00
    Donor Car: $500-$800

    Parts

    Race suspension: $400 (Mazdaspeed IT kit $1098)
    Upper strut mount: $100.00 (fronts) rears?
    Idler arm (competition) $80.00
    Pitman arm: $130.00
    Rear links: $370.00
    Watts links plus competition mount: $160.00
    Clutch: $200.00
    Brake pads: $147.00 - $230.00
    Brake rotors: $80.00
    Brake master: $45.00
    Steering wheel: $70.00
    Hub: $60.00
    Harness: $70.00
    Padding: $30.00
    Transponder: $350.00 (rental)
    Wheels:
    Tires:
    Engine/Rebuild: $200 - $800.00
    Paint: $100.00
    Front control arms: $340.00 (complete + bushings)
    Tie Rods: $228
    Seat: $80.00 - $150.00
    Seat mounting: $40.00
    Seat back brace: $40.00
    Steel braided lines: $100.00
    Engine mod (exhaust, header, carb) $280 header, $100 air filter, $100 exhaust.
    Fuel pump/regulator/filter: $310.00
    Misc. $300.00

    I got these prices primarily from Racing Beat, Mazdatrix, or RockAuto. I don't know RX-7 suspension that well but I'd assume a donor car wouldn't be mint and driving so I would assume most of the suspension needs to be replaced unless the suspension on the race car (it's currently a shell/slight roller I'm told) has good suspension.

    Any input is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    IT.com "First Loser" Greensboro, NC USA
    Posts
    8,607

    Default

    Spending "new money" on a 1st generation RX7 makes zero sense. There are usable IT7s out there for sale for sale and they are only getting less expensive.

    K

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    My thoughts exactly, I just didn't know if I was looking at this wrong and if there really was a chance to have this thing back on track for less than buying one already built.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    CT/NY/NJ
    Posts
    1,157

    Default

    I'd tend to agree with Kirk here. Those cars get no love for no good reason and the dollar seems to go very far on them...

    assuming they are correct/close, what do your numbers add up to?
    Chris Rallo "the kid"
    -- "wrenching and racing" -- "will race for food!" -- "Onward and Upward"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    $3000+ and that's not even doing it right in my eyes. lol That's far too high of a number for such a project. I'd buy something decent and ready to go for that. I just don't know that much about them, specifically the suspension and what needs to be replaced on them. The shell supposedly needs a little body work, paint, and of course a lot of mechanical items, which I imagine a lot of which would be bad coming from a donor car that has been sitting outside.

    All my research so far is saying no. It may be a good deal for a caged shell that cheap but everything else isn't looking reasonably priced.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    CT/NY/NJ
    Posts
    1,157

    Default

    yea and things tend to add up once you get into the project AND that's "paying" yourself nothing for your time... Unless you really want to build it yourself.

    In regards to what to look for, look for a car that has the tri-link done and panhard bar. Do some reading on the forum... lots of good info about those cars on here.
    Chris Rallo "the kid"
    -- "wrenching and racing" -- "will race for food!" -- "Onward and Upward"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    Yeah I know it would all add up, that's my other concern that I'll be in over my head and regret it, but some keep telling me it won't be that bad. I don't mind royally busting my butt and spending hours of time working on it, I'll spend all the time I need to race, I just don't want to "waste" money trying.

    I've been reading on the tri-link/panhard thing, I don't know what half of the terminology is suspension wise on these cars honestly. lol

  8. #8

    Default

    If you change your mind on building and want a turnkey car that has all the goodies let me know. We may have one for sale here very shortly.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Simon - EM sent. I've got an 85 IT-A Rx-7 and 85 Street Car, so I think I'm down this road already. Look forward to talking with you... G-Man

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1,499

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon T. View Post
    Yeah I know it would all add up, that's my other concern that I'll be in over my head and regret it, but some keep telling me it won't be that bad. I don't mind royally busting my butt and spending hours of time working on it, I'll spend all the time I need to race, I just don't want to "waste" money trying.

    I've been reading on the tri-link/panhard thing, I don't know what half of the terminology is suspension wise on these cars honestly. lol
    Simon,

    Building a car from the ground up is AWESOME! It allows you to understand everything and it forces you to do research and learn about the car. Buying a car allows you to "get lazy" and not learn what does what and why until you need to.

    But is that really worth it?

    1.) Building a car is NEVER cheap and always costs double what you plan... why? Its kinda like going to vegas. you can go to the surf and turf and spend $8 for all you can eat or you can go to the palms and spend $20 for all you can eat. If your only doing this once why not splurge a little. Same goes with every part you purchase for you build and before you know it your out of cash with an incomplete car or your way over budget and your wife kills you!

    2.) It is easy to get way over your head.. then who do you turn to? Do you have knowledgeable friends that can get you out of the bind your in or do you have to pay someone? This may set you back months or not only stall you but derail you and the project never gets completed.

    I will be the first to say that BOTH these happened to me in my RX8 build. I was WAY in over my head taking on a car I knew nothing about. I had a shell and a cage but not idea what else I really needed. When the opportunity came to purchae a wrecked car and transfer everything over I did. If that opportunity didn't come along the projected probably would have derailed and wouldn't be complete. The other thing was the $$. I didn't want to waist money on marginal parts and got the best of everything, when all was said and done I added the bill up and imediatly burned it and never showed my wife. sadly it is like the sun and burnt into my eyes.. If I close my eyes I can still see the number etched in my head!

    Its a hard choice. Just be 100% honest with yourself and know what your real resources and knowledge is before making your decision.

    Stephen

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    Well I personally don't really like working on cars that much, I do it because I can't afford anyone else to, but...lol

    I would prefer buying a race ready car for a few reasons. It's typically cheaper, it has been sorted, and there's usually less mechanical work. I bought my last car, an ITA Neon, "almost" ready to race. That ended up being quite a bit of extra stuff so I would imagine building this car would end up being more no matter what way I look at it as every little bit adds up.

    The race chassis is $350, I have a guy willing to sell me a complete donor car for $500, that's $850 for a caged chassis with some bits on it and a complete street car probably not running though. Now I guess the question would be can I make this a good track car for say a remaining $1300? Better than a $2100-$2200 car for sale elsewhere? I just don't know what would go into a 1st gen build, especially suspension to make it handle decently.

    I'd be using a friends shop to build the car, so tools, garage, etc would all be at my disposal and the guys selling me the cars are both big big rotary guys so they would be very knowledgeable about the cars.

    My goal is a well priced and reliable track car, I can make it fast as time goes on. I just want seat time right now, but I also don't want to be ran over or slower than my last car. lol

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    I'm not going to lie, every time I write out what I'm thinking it sounds like a bad decision. lol

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    raleigh, nc, usa
    Posts
    5,252

    Default

    That's true of anything racing.

    However, what Kirk said is 100% true. At this point, no one should be spending any money on a 1st Gen RX7 build.

    You can find and buy great examples of these cars for $3k.

    In fact, I would avoid the 1st gen RX7 alltogether given the rotor housing issue.
    NC Region
    1980 ITS Triumph TR8

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    Right, but I think if it could be done cheaply it would be worth it, it's just not looking like it can be done cheaply and be done correctly cheaply. Although I know 12a engines are fading away I know where quite a "few" sit. lol

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    raleigh, nc, usa
    Posts
    5,252

    Default

    I wouldn't do it. It's difficult enough to get them used, and to get a true race built 12a with good housings is going to cost in excess of $5k.

    It's a shame what has happened to that car, but I do think it has hit something of a dead end.
    NC Region
    1980 ITS Triumph TR8

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    601

    Default

    Yeah it is, I've always liked them, maybe the new "IT7R" class will put some of them back on track.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Black Rock, Ct
    Posts
    9,594

    Default

    Simon, I know a lot about the IT7. Email me ...addy is in my sig. We can talk on the phone.
    Do NOT buy that setup. You will hate yourself. If it seems like too good of a deal, it IS.
    Jake Gulick


    CarriageHouse Motorsports
    for sale: 2003 Audi A4 Quattro, clean, serviced, dark green, auto, sunroof, tan leather with 75K miles.
    IT-7 #57 RX-7 race car
    Porsche 1973 911E street/fun car
    BMW 2003 M3 cab, sun car.
    GMC Sierra Tow Vehicle
    New England Region
    lateapex911(at)gmail(dot)com


  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Buffalo, New York
    Posts
    2,942

    Default

    Heed Jeff's advice...WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO FIND GOOD USEABLE 12A HOUSINGS IN THE FUTURE??

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Ridgefield, CT
    Posts
    151

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon T. View Post
    Now I guess the question would be can I make this a good track car for say a remaining $1300? Better than a $2100-$2200 car for sale elsewhere?
    You could quickly spend $1300 on the suspension alone. Complete cars are so cheap they're almost disposable. Buy a car today, nut and bolt it tomorrow, and be racing by the weekend.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    7,031

    Default

    Simon,

    Let's talk turkey.

    You have been with us for 4 years now. You are young and enthusiastic. Like many people like that, you have limited funds. This is NOT a sport you want to do with limited funds like this. When I say that, I mean that even though we all have 'limited funds', a shoestring budget can be done - but you have to accept a few things.

    - You won't be competitive in some areas
    - You won't be able to race near as much as you want
    - You aren't headed toward a racing 'career'

    What is your overall budget for the actual car? If it's $3000-$5000, go find a nice ITB Honda that can get you on the track and parts are easy to find.

    If it's $5000-$8000 grab a decent ITS RX-7.

    If it's $8000-$10000, buy a decent 1.8L Spec Miata and build it into an ITA or ITS car (depending what year).

    If you can't do the ITB car, then you won't be able to afford the $500 (minimum) a weekend it takes to do this...on a shoestring...

    Lay out your budgets and let us help you try this.
    Andy Bettencourt
    New England Region 188967

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •